If you’re anything like me, you’ll probably find crochet hugely comforting. However, one instance in which crocheting may not be so relaxing is during a flight. Or, rather, during the security checks! Can you bring crochet hooks on a plane with you?

You can bring crochet hooks with you on a plane, but you’ll need to make sure you prepare and cover them carefully before you board.

Since crochet hooks tend to be pretty long and pointed, there’s little wonder why there’s so much confusion over bringing them with you when you travel. Sadly, the same applies to many craft tools, such as knitting and sewing needles, pliers, scissors, etc. 

Let’s take a closer look at what you need to know before you take any kind of crochet equipment with you on a domestic or international flight.

Can I bring crochet hooks on a plane – and how should I prepare them?

Thankfully, yes, crochet hooks are generally allowed on planes! What’s more, you can carry them in either your checked-in luggage or your carry-on bags. 

Remember, however, that TSA requirements can vary from location to location and from airline to airline. Therefore, don’t be too shocked if you’re asked specific questions about your crochet hooks, or to take them out of your bags for a close inspection.

It is also worth noting that while they are allowed on flights, you must ensure they are stored correctly. 

The TSA specifically asks that sharp objects should be properly covered, wrapped, or even sheathed. This is simply to prevent any injury that could happen to those handling or even inspecting the bags.

So, when it comes to your crochet hooks, try wrapping them up, or even keeping them in a case, just to be safe. This will also ensure they do not get damaged during your journey, so it’s a win-win! 

When bringing them with you on board, keep them open and visible. This will help prevent the inspectors from getting harmed and show that you are open and willing to show they are there. 

These rules apply to most crochet hooks and tools – including specialist crochet hooks for arthritis sufferers – so be sure to follow them to the letter.

Can you take crochet hooks on international flights?

Whether or not you can take crochet hooks with you on international flights varies from case to case. As with TSA regulations, it’s typically safe for you to take crochet equipment with you in carry-on luggage. However, you must make sure to check these details with your airline going forward and back.

As with TSA checks, keep your hooks visible going through security, and wrap them up safely so no one risks injury or harm.

Can you bring knitting needles on a plane?

Knitting needles can be a little more tricky to bring through security, especially if they’re made from metal. Generally speaking, the TSA allows you to bring your knitting needles both in the cabin of the plane and in your luggage in the hold. 

Metal needles may be cause for concern. Even circular needles with metallic cabling can cause disruption at security checks as they can activate metal detectors on your way through.

To save yourself some time and trouble, it may be best to bring either plastic or wooden needles. But, should your metallic needles be absolutely necessary, then know that you are allowed to bring them; it may just take you a little longer to get through security! 

There are zero regulations regarding the size of your needles, so just be careful with material first, and size second. Again, as with crochet hooks, it’s worth packing your needles safely so they don’t cause any harm during checks.

Rules for knitting needles on international flights, again, may vary depending on the airline you travel with. Be sure to reach out to customer care for advice.

Can I bring other craft needles on a plane? 

Sewing needles are famously sharp and, in some cases, even long enough to cause concern for security personnel. Always make sure you follow the guidelines expected of you before you travel!

Generally speaking, you can bring sewing needles in your carry-on bag through security. Much the same as metallic knitting needles, the material is likely to set off the detector, so be ready to open the case or pouch in which they are to show them to the inspectors. 

Ideally, you should present needles to security when you arrive and make them perfectly visible in the TSA bin. This way, there shouldn’t be any further queries over what you’re carrying with you, and why.

Once again, rules will vary from flight to flight if traveling internationally, so always check before you board.

Other sewing tools

When it comes to other sewing tools, such as rotary cutters, for example, you will have to put them in your checked luggage. Blades on implements such as these are too dangerous to store via cabin on your plane and will, therefore, not make it through security. Instead, you may find some items are confiscated and destroyed.

So, before you get to security, either put the cutters in your checked luggage or throw them away yourself – or, save on wastage and leave them at home.

Can I bring a sewing machine on a plane?

If smaller craft tools won’t suffice, and you have to bring larger sewing equipment with you, then here’s the question to ask yourself: Will my sewing machine fit in the overhead locker? 

If the answer is yes, then the TSA will let you bring the sewing machine with you on the plane. However, you will need to check the size and weight restrictions of the airline you are using to ensure that it will indeed fit! 

It’s also essential to bear in mind that while it may fit, sewing machines tend to be pretty heavy – and they’re not exactly made for travel. So, you’ll have to carry around a big, heavy device with you, potentially for hours. You’ll also need to be able to lift the sewing machine safely into the overhead locker without letting it fall on or hurt anyone around you! 

So, maybe consider checking the sewing machine in with your luggage instead. That way, you should be able to pack it perfectly for the trip without having to carry it around all day by yourself! 

In the event of any kind of confiscation, always check that the airport you’ll be using has a mail facility. Should they confiscate your sewing machine, ask staff to send it back to you, straight to your home address. Just to make things go a little easier and quicker, it would also be wise to bring your own envelope with your address and postage on it.

Can I bring pliers on a plane with me?

Pliers can be difficult to bring into a plane cabin, as some are very long and sharp. Generally, if your pliers are longer than seven inches, then they will not be allowed in your carry-on luggage. They pose too much of a threat and will not be allowed through security. 

If they are smaller than seven inches (when fully extended), then they will be allowed in the cabin on the plane. However, you will likely have to explain them to security and be prepared to present them when checked. This is all in the name of preventing passengers carrying weapons with them on flights.

Again, to avoid any issues or concerns, it is best to present pliers to the TSA officers when you arrive and make them perfectly visible in the TSA bins.

Internationally, again – make a point to consult customer care before you board, so you can avoid any slowdown.

Can I bring scissors on a plane?

No, you can’t bring scissors with you into a plane’s cabin. no. If you try to bring scissors through security, then they will be confiscated and thrown away – they’re seen as a major security risk as they can be used as weapons.

However, when it comes to nail scissors, or those that are less than four inches long, you may be able to bring them into the cabin with you. You will have to place them in the bins at TSA so that they are fully visible. Honesty and transparency are key at airport security – if you can justify why you need your scissors mid-flight, you may be able to take them with you.

To avoid all unnecessary worry, it’s best just to pack your scissors in your luggage to go in the hold. There, they will be perfectly safe and ready to use when you land. You’ll just have to put your crafts away for a little while during your trip!

Conclusion

If you’d like to do a little bit of crochet or crafting mid-flight, in many cases, you’ll be able to bring crochet hooks, scissors and other tools with you on a plane according to TSA rules. However, it’s always worth checking these regulations with your chosen airline before you board.

Otherwise, you may find your tools are confiscated and may even get destroyed in the terminal. It’s all in the name of keeping you, other passengers, and airline staff safe. It’s a cause we can all get behind – and if it means leaving your hooks and loops in the hold for a few hours, it’s a sacrifice well worth making!

Originally posted 2022-10-26 18:55:40.

The post Can You Bring Crochet Hooks on a Plane? first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

We all know someone who’s a dab hand at knitting, crochet, and weaving. They’re all fantastic at making clothes, bedding, and even toys and comforters. What’s more, they are all fantastically relaxing hobbies to turn to from time to time.

Since all three of these methods revolve around creating patterns out of fabrics, many people believe that they are interchangeable – wrong!

So, what is the difference between knitting vs crochet vs weaving, anyway?

The short answer is that knitting uses two different needles; weaving uses two different types of fabric, and crochet only uses one needle, a yarn strand, and loops. 

That sounds simple enough – but, as you might expect, there’s more to these differences than meets the eye. Let’s crack on with what you can expect from your potential new hobby, and which form fits you best!

What is knitting?

Many of us can envisage our grandparents gearing up with two wooden needles, making scarves, socks or even toys out of large balls of yarn. In fact, the word ‘knit’ derives from ‘cnyttan’, an old English word meaning to tie a knot!

But, there’s more to knitting than just tying knots – technically, that can apply to crochet, too. Confused yet? Don’t worry!

First of all, it is important to remember that knitting involves the creation of stitches. Stitches are loops of yarn that intertwine to make solid fabrics. 

There are multiple types of stitch that can be used during a knit, although the two most commonly relied-upon are the pearl stitch and the general knit stitch. 

Knitting only involves one strand of yarn, whether it is from a large ball or just one piece. 

What’s more, knitting needles come in a wide variety of sizes and materials. In fact, a good knitter will choose their tools based on what they’re making – and their own preferences.

You can even buy rounded knitting needles, for example – these are usually used to create circular fabrics and even tubes. 

It’s also possible to knit via loom – which is where there’s some similarity with weaving. However, knitting and weaving looms are two different tools.

Knitting looms are used by those who do not want to put as much stress on their hands during the act, and can help to create uniform patterns, shapes, styles, and looks.

Of course, knitting machines also remain popular, mainly thanks to their efficiency over using looms or relying on your hands.

You can find knitting machines that are either semi or fully automated – and while that does save time and effort, most passionate knitters prefer using their own hands. 

After all, if you want to do things ‘properly’, many would argue grabbing a couple of needles and getting stuck in is the best route to travel!

Did you also know that you can knit with just your hands? It’s never recommended for beginners, but if you’re feeling brave, you can leave the needles to one side and get stuck in with your fingers.

This can lead to larger, more simplistic patterns than you’d expect with traditional knitting, so save it for easier projects.

You can usually tell if a fabric has been knitted by how many strands have been used (if you can tell for one set piece). However, it is important to remember that unique pieces can be attached to one another to create larger ones (as is often the case in scarves, blankets, and quilts).

You can also tell that something has been knitted by the fabric used – yarn – and its ridged texture. 

What is crocheting?

Crocheting is a little more difficult to define, as it does resemble knitting quite a lot – but, the main differences lie in the tools you’ll need.

Like knitting, crocheting involves creating unique fabrics from one strand of yarn that has been intertwined with itself to form loops. 

The differences boil down to your trusty crochet hook, the heart of this crafting operation. In fact, the word crochet actually comes from the French word ‘croche’, which means hook! 

A crochet hook resembles a knitting needle in that it is fairly long, and however thick you need it to be depending on your project. However, the end is curved into the shape of a hook – hence the name. And, unlike in knitting, for crocheting, you only need one hook to create a piece. 

Most crochet hooks are made from aluminum. However, again, just like knitting needles, crochet hooks can arrive in different materials and in various sizes, too. Everything depends on what you are making and your own personal crafting preferences.

You’ll need to start any crochet piece with a chain stitch. From there, you can pretty much make any combination of stitches that you like. 

It can be a little difficult to determine whether a fabric has been knit or crocheted. 

Apart from the initial chain stitch, crocheting doesn’t have one set stitch or pattern that can be recognized above others. 

The only slight difference that you might notice is that crochet stitches tend to be more akin to knots. However, it would take a trained eye to notice, and even then, it could have been knitted! Even trained eyes have difficulty telling between pieces.

However, it stands to reason that you probably have more crocheted items in your home than you might realize. Items such as covers, blankets, hats, and scarves are often crocheted.

Little yarn pieces that are added onto clothes, blankets, hair pieces, and more (such as brooches, pockets, and intricate details) are usually crocheted, too. 

Crocheted items are generally less flexible than knitted projects. That’s largely because crocheted items are usually very tightly made, as the loops holding the patterns together are smaller and more intricate than knitted projects.

Of course, this isn’t always the case, and a lot depends on the fabric, the person doing it, and the stitches that have been made. 

In any case, crocheting and knitting carry a lot of similarities – though, it pays to know the difference depending on the project you’d like to get started with!

Crochet tends to be popular with people who want to make specific shapes that might otherwise be hard to knit or weave. For example, it’s easy enough to learn how to crochet your own circles and ovals.

It’ll take a little bit of practice, but the practical and creative freedom you’ll get from crochet really can’t be beat.

Many people find crochet easier than knitting and vice-versa. My advice would be to give either option a try and to see how you feel – you’ll produce very similar results through either method, so keep an open mind! Weaving, on the other hand, is a different matter!

What is weaving?

Magnificent weaving machines, or looms, are amazing to watch in practice – but, with a little bit of practice and some time dedication, you’ll be able to create some masterpieces you can be proud of.

Simply put, weaving is the process of taking two pieces of yarn and crossing them over each other. One strand needs to be vertical (known as the warp), and one needs to be horizontal (known as the weft). 

Many people are familiar with the process of plain weaving, in which the weft goes under and over every other warp. 

What many people don’t know, however, is that there are many different styles of weaving and even different types of looms!

Many of us can picture basic picture frame looms, but there are also table looms, frame looms, floor looms, and even rigid heddle looms.

Each one has an intricate setup and operation, thus creating different forms of weaving. If you’re keen to get into weaving, it’s certainly worth researching different types of loom available!

But, how do you recognize whether or not a fabric has been woven? It’s actually pretty simple. Just closely examine the pattern and see if it looks like a grid.

If you see one section of the fabric going one way, and passing over the other fabric which is going in the opposite direction, you’re handling woven material.

Many of us have items in our homes that have been woven, from our clothes and furniture covers to our bedding and even handkerchiefs! 

For example, one easy woven pattern to identify easily is the one on a simple pair of jeans. When you look at your own jeans closely, you should be able to see two different sets of lines crossing over each other in vertical and horizontal directions.

If you cannot see them, then magnify them with a glass – or your phone’s camera – and you’ll soon see what I mean!

Weaving doesn’t always have to be exclusive to fabric-making, either. Think of baskets, pots made from leaves, straw hats, and more! These have all been woven very carefully using different materials that cross over one another in set patterns. 

Tapestries that we keep on our walls have all been woven, too. However, tapestries are known for using discontinuous weft. This is so that the fabric can show a particular image to create artwork.

This kind of weaving does not serve a functional purpose but rather an artistic one – it’s known as non-functional weaving.

Of course, the weaving that we use on our clothes, pots, and so on is known as functional weaving, as it serves a purpose. Simple!

Believe it or not, weaving is also the oldest form of creating fabric, by a long way. In fact, weaving has been around for thousands of years! It is believed that people started weaving around the Neolithic period.

What are the main differences between knitting, crocheting, and weaving? 

Crochet, weaving, knitting – they’re all great ways of bringing unique fabrics to life. But, as you’ve noticed, there are a few key differences.

First of all, look at the fabrics used. While weaving can involve any kind of fabric and even different kinds of materials (such as wood and leaves), both crocheting and knitting involve the use of yarn.

Of course, yarn arrives in different sizes, lengths, and colors, but it remains easy to identify. 

Secondly, take a look at the stitching techniques. Woven material goes over and under itself, whereas knitting and crocheting usually involve creating different kinds of knots.

Again, patterns can be different, but they do not cross over each other as they do in woven fabrics. 

All kinds of weaving also involve at least two sets of strands. There needs to be one set going downwards and one across. This makes the criss-cross pattern that we can easily identify. 

On the other hand, knitted and crocheted patterns are made using just one piece of yarn. The completed stitch can then be added to another to create a large fabric, but each individual pattern is made using only one strand of yarn. 

Finally, the tools used are the main way of discerning whether a pattern has been knit, crocheted or woven. If the fabric was created using hooks, then it was crocheted. If it was made using knitting needles, machines, looms, or by hand, then it was knit.

However, if the pattern was made using a weaving loom, or by crossing different strands of material by hand, then it was woven. 

You could also look at the origins of each of these methods to distinguish them from one another, but visually, all you really have to go on are the differences mentioned above! 

Which should I try first – crocheting, knitting or weaving?

Far be it from me to tell you which fabric-making hobby is ‘the best’! As you’ve seen from the guide above, you can knit, weave and crochet all kinds of different designs and materials.

I’d advise you to take a look at different projects you can bring to life and then choose your weapon!

Crocheting tends to be a popular choice among those creatives who want to create intricate shapes and characters, such as those they can bring to life in the shape of dolls.

Knitting is a great option for those of us who enjoy making our own clothes and accessories, while weaving is superb for making all kinds of bits and pieces.

Weaving actually tends to be a good choice for making practical and non-functional items, meaning if you have your heart set on a wide range of crafts, it might be worth learning this craft as a priority!

It’s a common misconception that one style of fabric work is more difficult than another. They all require a steady hand and a creative spirit – and while some may tell you that crocheting is perhaps the hardest of all, you never know what you might find easy to get into.

I’d suggest taking a look at a few ideas across social media such as Pinterest, where you’ll find collections of crochet, knitting and weaving projects and patterns you can work your way up to.

Conclusion 

Knitting, crocheting, and weaving are all popular ways of creating patterns, clothes, and gifts – they’re never likely to go out of fashion! Although they each have their own styles and require a lot of work, the main difference lies in the tools of the trade. 

What’s more, everyone has a preference – there’s no ‘perfect’ way to create fabrics! Although their end patterns may be similar (especially when it comes to knitting and crocheting), it’s how you get there that matters.

Once you get the hang of your chosen craft, there is nothing quite as relaxing or indeed as rewarding as finishing your own piece, whether it was woven, knit, or crocheted. 

These kinds of handmade fabrics and items also make for fantastic gifts and even family heirlooms. 

Take it slowly – you can’t expect to make masterpieces in a day! What you can do, however, is brush up on your crocheting skills, for example, by taking a closer look at other guides I have available.

Grab the right tools, and who knows what you could make?

Originally posted 2022-08-12 10:42:14.

The post Knitting Vs Crochet Vs Weaving: What’s The Difference? first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

Ever wanted to learn how to crochet a corner to corner (aka C2C) blanket before? This type of crochet practice is growing ever-popular thanks to a re-emergence of the art of crochet through social media – and in this guide, I’ll take you through how to crochet C2C with ease.

What does C2C in crochet mean? 

C2C stands for ‘corner to corner’ crochet, and is actually fairly self-explanatory. It involves building a piece starting in one corner by forming small squares, or tiles, increasing for a number of rows before decreasing and finishing your work in the opposite corner. The most impressive part of this is that despite the detailed look of C2C, it really only uses some of the simplest crochet stitches. 

Once you’ve mastered this technique, you’ll be amazed at the range of projects you can use it on! The structure of C2C makes it perfect for building square or rectangular projects, so you’ll often see this stitch for larger items like blankets and scarves. You may even find patterns for wall hangings and other decorative items.

Let’s take a look at how to do it!

How to C2C crochet – where to start

C2C crocheting is a great place to start if you have never done crocheting before. It only requires you to learn how to do three basic stitches! These are the double crochet stitch, the slip stitch, and the chain stitch.

Pick your yarn and the hook you are most comfortable with, or the one closest to hand, and let’s get started!

Most guides on how to C2C will have you start with what will be the bottom right corner of your piece and have you work your way towards the top left corner. Of course, as you become more adept and confident with your hook, you’ll be able to alter patterns so you can start in any direction you feel comfortable. 

C2C patterns are usually presented as numbered graphs. Numbers are aligned on grids making the pattern pretty easy to follow, even for a novice. A great tip is to mark alongside a number on the grid to track your progress. It’s a handy trick when pausing in the middle of a large piece. 

C2C grids are really easy to find online. Or, if you’re super creative and fancy a challenge, you can try making your own grid from scratch. Just make sure to number your grid and mark any color changes carefully!

Some C2C abbreviations, explained

Symbols on crochet patterns usually include a key or legend with the letters and numbers assigned to each stitch. The main abbreviations and terms you’ll find are as follows:

4-tr cl = 4 Treble Cluster

Sl-st = Slip stitch and symbolizes a chain 

Tr = Treble crochet

Dc = Double crochet

Hdc = Half double crochet

Sc = Single crochet

Fo = Finish off

Yo = Yarn over

Chain = Ch (this can have a number next to it, such as Ch 3, to indicate how many stitches you need in a chain)

A word to the wise, don’t risk getting confused by the terminology! UK and US terms sometimes use the same term for different stitches. Be sure to check which terminology your pattern creator has used.

Starting your C2C piece – how to crochet a C2C square or rectangle

Right – let’s really get into how to crochet corner to corner. Here’s a few handy steps to help you get into the process – and don’t worry if your work isn’t perfect right away!

Using increase rows in C2C

When starting with C2C, you’ll kick things off with increase rows. This is where you’ll need to start building up tiles in diagonal rows – and once you’ve increased to the point where you’re at a size you’re comfortable with, you’ll need to decrease again.

Believe me, this is likely easier in practice than it is to read up on! Therefore, I highly recommend you practice along with this guide, especially if C2C is completely new to you. Here are the steps you’ll need to follow for the first two rows, and then repeat.

First Row

1. Ch 6 (chain six stitches together)
2. Dc into your Ch 4 (fourth chain), using your hook
3. Dc again into the next two chains

Second Row

1. Ch 6 
2. Dc into your Ch 4, using your hook
3. Sl-st (slip stitch) to Ch 3, and turn from the first row
4. Ch 3
5. Dc three to Ch 3, and turn your chain

For all rows beyond here, simply follow the process. It takes a bit of practice, but once you’ve tried increasing once, you’ll likely start to feel the knack for it.

From here, of course, you’re going to need to know how to decrease and complete your C2C – so that’s where we’re heading to next.

Using decrease rows in C2C

Firstly, don’t worry if it doesn’t look like you’re decreasing anything – what this stage of the process offers is the chance for you to take tiles off your rows.

It’s crucial to decrease properly so that you can make sure your edges are nice and flat. Essentially, decreasing rows in C2C ensures that your crochet effectively ‘finishes’ somewhere, and doesn’t tail on forever!

When you’re working to a set pattern or grid, you’ll normally start decreasing rows when you get to the broadest side.

Up to this point, you’ve been increasing all the way. Still following me? Great – here’s your step by step guide to C2C decrease (keeping in mind our glossary from above!).

1. Don’t Ch 3! Instead, Sl-st for every Dc you come across
2. Then, Sl-st and turn the chain
3. Ch 3
4. Dc three in Ch 3, then turn into your last row

Where might I use increase and decrease rows?

It’s worth mentioning that you might not need to use increase and decrease rows in all projects. Specifically, the example listed above is handy if you want to crochet a simple rectangle or square as a starting point.

As you start to read more patterns and check out more complex designs, it’s worth branching out into additional video tutorials and walkthroughs.

Reading C2C charts

Reading C2C crochet charts is actually relatively simple. You’ll traditionally start in the bottom right hand corner of any grid using increase rows, working up towards the top left.

Your increase rows are traditionally numbered vertically on the right hand side, while your decrease rows are numbered horizontally along the top.

Can I use any type of yarn for C2C crochet?

Yes – in all honesty, there’s no harm in using your favorite yarn to start with C2C. However, I’d generally recommend you look to invest in a variety of colors for your crochet box from a brand that’s well-loved and recognized.

Just as you’d make sure you have the best hooks to crochet with, it makes sense that you stock up on high-quality fabric, too.

Overall, I’d recommend looking for yarn that’s of premium quality. While C2C may seem fairly simple and may not always produce the most outlandish of results, that doesn’t mean you should avoid investing in quality resources.

Treat yourself to some high-quality yarn, and don’t be afraid to reach out to crocheting communities online – they are lovely people!

Can I change colors during C2C?

You can absolutely change colors during C2C crochet – after all, how boring would your designs be if you only ever used the same color time and again?

It’s worth mixing things up, and if you’re set on creating some unique designs, it’s worth learning how to switch from shade to shade.

If you’re following a guide, chart or graph, you’ll be informed as to when you need to switch color. Don’t panic! It’s here where you will need to make sure you change your color ahead of time, making one last dc in your base color in the previous tile. 

To start, you’re going to need to complete your Dc with a Yo of your new, chosen color. This means you’ll need to avoid the temptation of Yo’ing that third Dc. Once your new color is Yo’d, make sure to Sl-St Ch 3, turn your chain at the next tile, and then Ch 3 again.

You’ll then need to triple Dc in Ch 3, yet again, turning the chain. Hey presto – you’re working with a brand new color, adding a bit more character to your design.

Swapping colors during C2C crochet can get a little bit muddled, so it’s best to try keeping your separate balls of yarn assigned to separate skeins.

This way, you can ensure you’re not twisting or knotting up your fabric, and you can access it all easily when you come back to your project.

I’d advise you to avoid trying to complete a C2C project in one sitting – it’s perfectly fine to come back to your design after a while! Just remember to store your C2C as flat as possible, otherwise it’s at risk of bending or warping.

If that happens, you’re going to need to block or steam it back into shape.

What can I make using C2C? 

C2C does not have to be square! Simply by decreasing or increasing rows, it’s easy to make rectangles – but you can adapt the shape to suit your individual requirements.

As you’ll see from available patterns online, you can really go wild with a variety of different clothes, accessories, patches, and more. One of the best reasons to get into C2C, too, is the fact that your designs will be completely reversible.

You can craft C2C and flip it for display purposes or add things like beads, lace, or buttons on one side. The choice is yours!

C2C pieces can also be folded and sewn either end to make cushion covers, purses or bags. You can decide what size openings or flap to incorporate and fold accordingly.

For example, to make a zippered makeup bag, you will need a medium to small rectangle. Fold it longways and use a flap to fasten with a button of two pieces of ribbon to form a bow tie – it’s a great look!

For a cushion cover, you can choose to use a rectangle or square and simply stitch a zip on the side to open. A useful tip for cushions is to stitch your crochet square or rectangle onto a dish towel, so one side is easy to iron and an instant fix.

This means you can replicate the pattern of crocheted yarn for two items and use less yarn and time in crocheting the entire piece.

You can even create unique wall hangings in C2C, too! Consider creating your own names, phrases, characters and logos – there’s thousands of patterns online you can choose from to get started.

To ensure your wall hangings retain their shape, it’s a good idea to back them with a piece of fabric. Felt requires no hemming.

A dish towel for a larger piece or face cloth for a smaller piece works well too – plus, they have the advantage of being robust enough to attach a piece of wood, pole or piece of string to, in order to hang your wall art! 

Where can I find C2C patterns and resources online?

You’re in luck – there are huge repositories of C2C crochet pattern grids for you to get into on the web. I’d normally suggest checking out social media first as a priority – for example, take a look at boards on Pinterest, and take a look out for relevant hashtags on Instagram and TikTok.

Do also make a point of browsing YouTube for tutorials you can follow along!

This guide has, after all, only been an introduction to what you could possibly achieve through C2C crochet. Let your imagination run wild – you never know what you might create!

If you’re particularly new to crochet, period, learning how to C2C crochet will open up all kinds of doors for you.

Originally posted 2022-08-03 21:39:51.

The post How To Crochet Corner to Corner (C2C) – Your Complete first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

When crocheting in rows, it’s typical to chain one or two, depending on the stitch, turn your work, and crochet back the other way. A consequence of this crochet method is that every other row is wrong side facing, creating a lined effect. I’d venture a guess that most people don’t mind the way this looks, but if there were a way to keep the pretty side facing out the entire time, wouldn’t you be interested in giving it a try?

In this article, I will teach you how to crochet without turning the typical way, so your finished crochet pieces are more uniform.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

At the end of the row, put your hook through the backside of the last stitch of your work. Keeping the working yarn in front, pull the yarn through to the back. Pull your loop up, and then pull your working yarn through both loops from the front.

There are a few methods to keep your right side facing out when you crochet, and some of them are easier than others. Of course, it may be easier to visualize with a bit more instruction, too. If you’re interested in trying out the different methods or getting more detailed step-by-step instructions, check out the rest of the article.

Crochet Without Turning Your Work

There are several possible scenarios for a pattern or piece that would require you not to turn your work. One of these instances will be if you are working in the round. Working in the round is great for hats, amigurumi, socks, and lots of other apparel.

How To Crochet In The Round: Slip Stitch And Chain One

To crochet in the round, crochet the number of stitches required in the pattern, then make a circle with your work by putting your hook through your first stitch and pulling the yarn through both the stitch and the loop on your hook to make a slip stitch—chain one.

One of the most common methods for crocheting in the round requires you to work in rows but without turning. The pattern might suggest using stitch markers to keep track of the beginning of each row, so you don’t accidentally miss the last stitch and start “spiraling” upward.

For this method, you’ll work the number of stitches required for your pattern, then join it to the first stitch. To join, insert your hook into the first stitch and pull the yarn through. Instead of yarning over again, you’ll pull the first loop through the second loop to create a slip stitch.

Next, chain one to elevate your work to the next row. You’ll work your next row as usual and join at the end of each round with a slip stitch. Chain one again to begin a new row.

As easy as it is, this method does create a “seam,” where the tight slip stitch stands out from the rest of the work. There are other methods to join that avoid this.

Crochet Rows Without Turning

When working a flat piece, it seems pretty inevitable that turning must occur if you want to keep working in the same direction; however, by working backward or with your non-dominant hand, you can crochet rows without turning to keep the right side facing out.

How to Crochet Backwards

To crochet without turning, insert your hook into the back of your last stitch. Pull a loop through from the front to the back with your working yarn in front. Then, with your working yarn still in front, pull your yarn through both loops on the hook.

Crocheting backward is different than working a reverse stitch. Reverse stitches are used for borders, whereas working backward will have you working the same stitch without turning to keep the right side facing out.

This method is for working single crochet backward. 

At the end of your row, chain one, pull the loop on your hook out a bit to give yourself more flexibility. Insert your hook into the back of your last stitch, meaning the one at the end of your previous row. Make sure to go through both loops on the top of this stitch.

Pull a loop from the front to the back with your working yarn in front. Pull the loops up so your hook is parallel with your work, and you can see both loops on your hook.

With the yarn still in front of the work, pull through again to create a single crochet. Continue inserting your hook into the back of the work until you reach the end of the row. Then you can return to the normal single crochet.

How To Crochet With Your Non-Dominant Hand

To crochet without turning, chain one at the end of each standard row, then transfer your hook to your non-dominant hand. Work the row as usual with your working yarn in your dominant hand, inserting the hook through the front of the stitch.

This method is pretty self-explanatory but will likely be more challenging based on lack of practice.

At the end of the work, where you’re holding the hook in your dominant hand, chain one and transfer the hook to your non-dominant hand. Hold the yarn in your dominant hand, and insert your hook into the front of each stitch like normal.

This will feel odd, and it may be challenging to keep the tension consistent. Some people wrap the yarn around the hook with their dominant hand instead of grabbing the yarn with the hook.

Single Crochet Without Turning Over

At the end of the row, chain one, insert your hook through the front of the last stitch you worked on. Pull your yarn through to the front to draw up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops.

Doing single crochet without turning your work but without working through the back of the stitch is called reverse single crochet. This creates a nice, finished edge.

To work the reverse single crochet, chain one at the end of your regular row. The working loop should be on the side of your non-dominant hand. Insert your hook through the front of the last stitch you worked on in the previous row. Pull your yarn through the stitch from the back to pull up a loop.

Yarn over and pull through both loops. Continue working by inserting your hook into the next stitch from the front. Pull the yarn from the back to the front to create a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. Continue in this way until you reach the end of the row.

Do You Always Need A Turning Chain In Crochet?

If you’re working in the round in a spiral, you do not need the turning chain. You almost always need the turning chain to elevate the work to the next row. Without the turning chain, your work will look pinched, and there will be no distinction between rows.

To work in the round without a turning chain, continue working stitches in a circle without joining or chaining another stitch.

Now you know how to crochet without turning! I hope this guide has helped you overcome some of the usual difficulties with this method and you can continue enjoying crocheting together masterpieces.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:53:27.

The post How To Crochet Without Turning (4 Easy Tips) first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

Crochet is one of the most diverse fiber arts for a few reasons. A primary reason is that you can crochet with pretty much any material at nearly any size to do unique projects. Crocheting with embroidery floss is no different than with regular yarn. It simply means that your stitches (and most likely your finished pieces) will be smaller.

In this article, I’ll teach you how to crochet with embroidery floss, why you might want to give it a try, and give you some ideas for what you can make with this shiny, vibrant thread.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

To crochet using embroidery floss, use a 1 or 2mm hook to work your stitches as usual. To keep your stitches small and condensed, use a 1mm hook or below. You can use a bigger hook for looser stitches if you want a lacier-looking piece.

If you already know how to crochet, embroidery floss for your pieces won’t look much different. However, if you’re learning or interested in the kinds of projects you can complete with this unique medium, keep reading for project suggestions and instructions.

Crocheting With Embroidery Floss

To crochet with embroidery floss, make a slip knot on your hook. Pull the yarn through the loop. Do this several times to make a chain. Insert your hook into the second chain, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops.

While crocheting with a single piece of embroidery floss can make small or dainty projects, you can also add embroidery floss to your yarn by crocheting with both strands to create a unique, colorful, and textured look.

However, crocheting with this medium on its own is no different than crocheting with regular yarn or thread. If you’re an absolute beginner, I’ll go through a quick tutorial on doing a basic single crochet stitch used for keychains, bookmarks, amigurumi, and more.

You’ll make a slip knot to put on your hook to start. To do this, create a loop that looks like a fish. Pull your working thread (the thread attached to the ball) through this loop and tighten it over the hook.

Hold your floss in your non-dominant hand to make a semi-tight line between your hand and the work in progress. Wrap your hook around this thread to grab it with the hook, then pull it through the existing loop. Do this again and again until you’ve reached the number of chains you need.

When you’re ready to start the next row, insert your hook into the second chain from the hook. Wrap your hook around the working thread again and pull it back through to the front. Then, wrap the thread around the hook again and pull it through both loops.

Is Embroidery Floss The Same As Crochet Embroidery Thread?

Embroidery floss is six strands of embroidery thread wound together, and as loosely wound cotton, they come apart easily. This means it may not be as structurally sound or easy to work with as typical yarn and maybe more suited to smaller projects.

If you’re a beginner, you may not be fully aware of how the medium, down to the material of the yarn you use, can change the way a piece comes together. For example, it’s not typically a good idea to use 100% cotton yarn for t-shirts. It makes the piece heavy, and it doesn’t drape well.

The drape is an essential part of the way a wearable fits. Ideally, it drapes comfortably over the body and looks ordinary, not stiff. The stiff drape may happen with worsted weight acrylic yarn that is rough to the touch.

Embroidery floss with a small hook is not going to drape nicely. This means projects that need to be stiff, like headbands, purses, baskets, etc., would work great with this kind of thread and a tiny hook. Embroidery floss with a big hook would make bigger holes between stitches. This would be great for lacy doilies, fringe borders, or bags. This would also give an item a better drape.

Best Hook Size For Crocheting With Embroidery Floss

Just like with yarn, there are different sizes of embroidery floss. The thicker the floss, the bigger the hook size you’ll need. For bigger sizes, 3 and 5 flosses, somewhere between a size 1 or 2mm hook should suffice. For smaller 8 or 12 threads, use a .40 or .60mm hook.

When in doubt, your pattern should give you an idea of the best hook size to create the desired look. For example, in this miniature embroidery amigurumi pattern, the author suggests a .40 mm hook for a small sheep and a 1 mm hook for a big sheep.

Embroidery floss hook size is a complex topic, but I’ll try to answer it as precisely as I can.

For tight, rigid stitches often used in crochet amigurumi, use a small .40 or .60mm crochet hook. Use a more significant 1 or 2mm crochet hook for loose stitches with better drapes. Using thicker thread with smaller hooks makes the stitches even more rigid. Using smaller thread with bigger hooks makes the stitches even looser and lacey.

You might have to mix and match on your own to see what your project requires and what look you like best!

What To Make Out Of Embroidery Floss

Embroidery floss is, on average, about the size of fingering weight yarn, meaning around a 2 in typical yarn. However, the thread that makes up the floss is very loosely wound and silky, meaning it may be challenging to work with, will split often, and may not hold its shape.

However, that doesn’t necessarily mean you’re limited in what you can do.

Here are some of the projects best suited for crocheting with embroidery floss:

• Amigurumi / Toys
• Baskets
• Headbands
• Jewelry
• Doilies
• Appliqués
• Bookmarks
• Keychains

I’ll leave two patterns that show the differences in drape between projects with small threads to get you started. Stiff drape can be seen in this tiny crochet octopus pattern. 

For something a bit lacier and more delicate, you could try your hand at this headband pattern. To keep the same gauge, you may need to double up on your embroidery floss and crochet with two strands at once or use one strand to make it even looser.

As a final note, you should know that larger, longer crochet projects can be done with thread this thin, but it may make you wish you hadn’t started if your yarn starts splitting and breaking.

Conclusion

Hopefully, at the end of this article, you’ve got an understanding of the differences between more common crochet mediums and embroidery floss. The projects you can do with it are still plentiful, and working up a piece is no different than your regular crochet! Just smaller.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:50:19.

The post How To Crochet With Embroidery Floss first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

It may seem that winter is the perfect time to crochet a blanket, but any time is a good crochet time. Do you stick to simple, small items, though, or do you embark on a larger project?

Why not combine both of these and crochet a blanket? It may sound like quite a daunting task, but that does depend on what type of blanket you choose to make.

If you’re short on time, I’ll answer how long does it take to crochet a blanket?

To crochet a blanket that will fit a standard single bed (39 x 75 inches, or 1 m x 1.9m) using a fairly common half double crochet stitch in a single color should take you between about 20-25 hours if you have moderate experience.

No matter how you approach making a blanket, the result will have you beaming with pride. Let’s take a look at more advice on crocheting your blanket!

Choosing Your Blanket Size

When you decide to crochet a blanket, the first thing you should do is to decide on what type of blanket. The most obvious choice may be one that can cover your whole bed. Think about it, though: there are so many different types and sizes of blankets you can choose from.

‘Bed’ blankets can be any size from 39 x 75 inches (1 m x 1.9m), which will cover a single bed, to 76″ x 80″ (193 cm x 204 cm), which will cover a king-sized bed.

Then, there are blankets for babies that are 40″ x 60″ (1m x 1.5m), which is reasonably standard crib size. You can, of course, also produce an even smaller blanket for a baby in a pram.

Traveling rugs or blankets are considered to be quite old-fashioned now, but don’t you sometimes wish you had a convenient, reasonably small blanket to cover your legs, at least, when you travel? You could consider beginning your work by crocheting a traveling blanket, which can be about 60″ x 60″ (1.5 x 1.5 m).

Length Of Time For Different Blanket Sizes

Knowing how long it takes to crochet a blanket is not straightforward because several things can affect it. These include the size of the blanket, the pattern you are following, the stitches you use, and your experience with crochet.

As already described, crocheting a standard single bed blanket could take between 20-25 hours.

As a general rule of thumb, you could say that it takes approximately 20 hours for every 21 square footage or 2 square meters.

If you’re planning to crochet a super king-size blanket, then strap yourself in for a long (but fun) ride!

Crocheting Your Blanket

Crocheting a single bed blanket using a single color and simple pattern should take you about 20 – 25 hours. I don’t think that this means you could make the blanket in one day, though, because crocheting can be tiring. Instead, think about how many minutes or hours you will crochet for in a day or week, and then work out the relative time.

I find that I can spend about an hour crocheting every second day or so, which means I can crochet a single bed blanket in four or five weeks. Of course, if you have extra time, you could do it more quickly.

The time it takes to crochet any blanket will be affected by what stitch/es you use and the pattern you follow for the blanket.

Consider Your Stitch To Save Time

Simply put, crocheting is using a hook to loop yarn through itself repeatedly. Practically, though, there are many ways you can do this. Using the most basic stitch, the chain stitch will produce a long strip of looped yarn.

You could stitch these together in a spiral or in rows to form a blanket, but it really wouldn’t be worth the effort. There are easier ways to crochet and produce quite thick rows or combinations that form the basics of blankets.

A double stitch means you hook the yarn twice in one and produces a thicker stitch. A half double stitch is an even better stitch to use for a blanket. It is relatively easy and gives the crochet an excellent, quite thick bulk.

Trying out these different stitch options could save you some time for your project. So I’d recommend trying out these different stitches and timing yourself for a whole row or two while trying each style. Then you might know better which is most practical for you to continue with.

Deciding On Your Blanket Pattern

When you begin to work on a blanket, you should consider what pattern you will use. The idea of a ‘pattern’ refers to two aspects of the blanket’s design.

One of these is the colors you will use on the blanket and how they are arranged. Using more than one color means changing yarn, which can take extra time. If you want to create a specific pattern of colors on the blanket, this can take quite some time, depending on how they relate to each other.

The second level of the pattern is the type of stitches you will use and arrange them. Using a half double stitch produces a blanket with repeated, horizontal rows. You can also use a triple stitch to create shells that link in horizontal rows.

You can also use a triple stitch to form rows that work around a central point, producing a square-shaped square. This is a helpful pattern to use for a traveling blanket. If you want to use this stitch for a rectangular blanket, you can form individual squares and sew them together. This is known as a ‘granny stitch.’

All of these stitches and patterns are pretty simple, and you will be able to crochet a lovely blanket in under a month if you crochet for about four or five hours a week. Of course, if you can crochet more often, you could finish the blanket in two or three weeks.

Picking Out Your Yarn Thickness

Crocheting a blanket means using wool or similar yarn to produce a cozy finish. After all, the point of a blanket is to keep warm. You probably don’t want to be using something like embroidery floss or thread because it’s too thin.

The thicker the yarn you use, the more substantial the blanket will be. Thicker yarn will also produce the blanket more quickly than thinner wool, which will affect the time it takes to crochet a blanket.

Thicker yarn is not necessarily easier to crochet with and can produce a heavy blanket. You need to choose the yarn to suit the type and pattern of the blanket, not so that it will go more quickly. Don’t just choose thicker yarn because of the time factor, though.

Conclusion: How long does it take to crochet a blanket?

Asking how long it will take to crochet a blanket is like asking, ‘How long is a piece of string’? Well, one that has been looped into itself.

The time depends on so many things, so take note of the type of blanket, the pattern, and the color scheme to help work out the time you will spend before you can produce your masterpiece.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:46:05.

The post How Long Does It Take To Crochet A Blanket? first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

Crochet is one of the most common multi-tasking hobbies. It’s a great craft to do while watching TV, listening to music or podcasts, or while at social gatherings. If you have to count every stitch, it’s impossible to crochet and do other things simultaneously. Thankfully, there are ways to keep your rows consistent without counting.

In this article, you’ll learn how to crochet without counting so you can keep your rows consistent and not have to worry about missed stitches.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

To crochet without counting, work a chain normally, insert a stitch marker or bobby pin into the first and last stitch, chain one, and turn. When you return to the stitch with the marker, work a new stitch, then put the marker into the new stitch.

Working with stitch markers can still be a hassle, but plenty of methods can make even rows that don’t require additional tools. If you’re interested in learning to crochet by eye and instinct, so you don’t have to count each stitch, check out the rest of the article.

How To Crochet In A Straight Line

To crochet in a straight line, so your edges are even, chain one at the end of each row and insert your hook into the first stitch of the previous row instead of skipping one. Check your work often for holes or leaning, undoing and redoing stitches as necessary.

Learning to crochet simply by sight and instinct takes a lot of practice. As you get better and learn, you’ll be able to recognize pretty quickly when you’ve skipped a stitch or didn’t complete a row.

Your beginning and end stitches aren’t changeable. Stopping short or adding one will change the beginning and end stitches, making the edges wiggly. There are a couple of tricks to help you get used to the way it should look to avoid this. 

How To Crochet Straight Edges By Sight Instead Of Counting

To crochet straight edges, chain one as you come to the end of a row. Then, insert your hook into the first stitch, not the second. Don’t put it into the side stitch when you come back to this stitch and decide where to put your hook.

There are essentially two problems when working in rows: figuring out which is the first stitch and figuring out the last. This method is for turning in single crochet in which only one turning chain is required to continue onto the next row.

The first stitch might be hard to puzzle because it looks connected to the turning chain. If you’re doing the turning chain (which is ideal if you want straight edges), remember that this chain doesn’t count as a stitch so you won’t work into it. After you chain one, gently tug on your work to see that the chain is still there, then you can see which part of the work to put your hook into. Your first stitch will have the two flat loops on top to insert your hook into.

Finding the end stitch is another obstacle because you don’t want to stop short and lose a stitch, and you don’t want to crochet into the previous row’s turning chain. To avoid this, take a close look at the last stitch of the row. 

This stitch should still have two loops flat on top of the work. Next to it is the turning chain which is slanted or vertical. You should easily put your hook through the two flat loops and not have to force it into the chain.

Note that other methods require you to work into the turning chain at the end of the row and skip the first stitch after creating the turning chain. Which method you choose to do will depend on your taste. I have always found it easier to crochet into the first stitch than the second to avoid confusing myself.

Don’t get too carried away when crocheting by sight and crochet several rows of work without inspection. If you notice your rows are leaning, or if there are ample spaces between stitches, it’s okay to pull the work out and redo it. You’ll have to do this a lot less as you become an expert.

Why Crochet Rows Get Shorter And Shorter

Crochet rows get shorter because you’re skipping stitches or your tension is too tight. Beginners most often lose stitches at the beginning and end of the row, so make sure you don’t drop those or hold the yarn too tight.

Do You Have To Count When Crocheting?

You don’t have to count every stitch when you crochet, but you do have to know the signs of missed stitches, added stitches, and other beginner mistakes, so you can fix them before you get too far into your piece.

Methods For Counting Single Rows

While you may be able to get away without counting stitches each row, for most patterns, you’ll have to be able to keep track of rows you’ve completed. There are a few different ways to make it easier to count completed rows.

Count Rows Using Yarn Or Stitch Markers

One of the best ways for beginners to count rows is by inserting yarn ties into the end of each row through the turning chains. Using a contrasting color, make a tie around the turning chain at the end of the row to easily see where each row is. 

Do this every time you finish a row and chain to turn.

Count Rows By Twos

When working in rows, stitches begin to take shape in twos. For example, a single crochet stitch will make a “c” shape between the upper and bottom row. If you count the number of c shapes stacked on top of each other, multiply this by two.

Other stitches will look different. Double crochet stitches stand out and seem fluffier every other row. You can count them in pairs by adding the flat and fluffy rows in twos.

A half-double crochet will form a sort of “n” shape. Two rows together will create this, so count the number of vertical “n” stacked on top of each other, then multiply by two.

Count The Holes

Similar to the previous, this method requires you to count the number of rows of holes stacked on top of each other. There will be loose spaces where the stitches connect where you’ve formed each new row. As an easy way to spot each row, you can count the number of rows of holes stacked on top of each other (plus one for your top row) to get your number of completed rows.

Conclusion

There’s been a lot to process in this article. Still, hopefully, as a beginner to crochet or someone struggling to make their work look more professional, you’ve learned some tips, tricks, and methods to even out your work and be able to multi-task while making your finished crochet pieces.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:42:00.

The post How To Crochet Without Counting first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

When you’re just beginning to crochet, figuring out where to put stitches, how tight to hold the thread, and how much to increase on round projects can result in a few hiccups that make your pieces look funky. Crochet rippling is just one side effect of some of these mistakes. Thankfully, it isn’t the kind of mistake that requires a complete do-over – most of the time.

In this article, I will teach you how to fix crochet rippling and why it happens in the first place.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

If your flat crochet piece turns wavy, your tension may be inconsistent. Experiment with different holds on the yarn and practice making rows with even stitches before you get into a big project. Make sure you have plenty of working yarn as well.

It’s frustrating, but there are many reasons your crochet project may be bunching, rippling, or waving. It may even come down to the yarn or crochet hook you’re using. To learn about each situation that might create rippling crochet projects, keep reading and find out how to fix them without starting over completely.

Why Is My Crochet Rippling?

If your crochet piece is rippling (or ruffling as some call it), or it won’t lay flat, you have too many or too few stitches. Depending on if you’re crocheting in the round or crocheting a flat piece, it may look a little different for each case.

You may also be holding the yarn too tightly or too loosely, or you may be using the wrong size hook for the yarn you’ve chosen.

Crochet Going Wavy

If your crochet is going wavy, you may be adding stitches or creating inconsistent tension. To fix this, unravel until it isn’t wavy anymore, and be careful to count each stitch as you retry. If your tension is off, try holding the yarn differently or giving yourself more working yarn.

Sometimes it can be hard to tell when and if you’re adding stitches. Even if you have evenly straight edges, you can still add stitches in the middle where it would be harder to see. Extra stitches added throughout can result in wavy crochet.

To avoid this, if you’re unsure if you’ve already placed a stitch, turn your piece so the v-shapes of the stitches are facing you. The next available stitch should have a complete v-shape. With fluffier yarn, you may have to be extra sure by pulling your last stitch aside to make sure you haven’t already worked there.

Another reason your crochet may be wavy is if your tension is off. Too much tension can result in looser stitches that take up more space on the piece—having tension that is too tight can result in rigid stitches that pull the stitches beside it out of shape. To get even, flat rows, get a better grasp on proper tension through practice or by experimenting with different yarn holds to see which works best for you.

Sometimes the way the yarn comes out of the skein may be interfering with consistent tension. Many crocheters find it easier to wind their skeins into a cake or a ball before pulling the yarn. Pulling from the center instead of from the outside also tends to help create a more even pull.

How To Fix Rippling Crochet Circle

To fix a rippling crochet circle, pay close attention to when the circle begins not to lay flat. If it is starting to ripple, unravel a row (or several) and add fewer or no stitches at all. If curling inward, unravel the previous row and add more stitches.

If you’re crocheting in the round, your circle is rippling, and you’re not following a pattern, the most likely scenario is that you have too many or too few stitches. 

In an oval or circle shape, if the edges begin to curl inward and they aren’t meant to, this means you haven’t increased enough. Unravel the curling rows until it lays flat again, and be sure to increase by the appropriate amount, experimenting with what helps the piece keep its shape.

If you’re working your circle or oval and the piece begins to bunch up or ripple, this means you have too many increases, and the outer circle can’t support them all. Once again, undo the rows until your piece looks flat again, then increase in smaller amounts. When working without a pattern, this will take a bit of trial and error.

Sometimes, a piece can begin to ripple or curl even when you’re following a pattern. If you’re increasing as the pattern suggests, your tension may be off, and the outer stitches are too tight. Another possible cause is the yarn and hook size are incompatible. Consider going up a hook size to see if this loosens up the piece to help it lay flat.

Loose Foundation Row Creating Ripples

To stop your crochet from rippling on the bottom, crochet your foundation row in the foundation single crochet instead of chaining. This prevents the chains from being looser than the rest of your piece, which would result in the bottom of the piece looking wavy.

Another common problem in crochet is that the foundation chain of the piece gets loose as you work into it, making the piece look uneven on the bottom, so it ripples or curves on the end. The best way to remedy this is to learn the starting crochet row without chains. This is called the foundation single crochet (FSC).

To make an FSC, chain two. Then, insert your hook into the second chain from the hook. Pull up a loop. You’ll now have two loops on your hook. Instead of pulling through both loops, pull through one. This will put one loop slightly elevated above the other.

Yarn over, then pull through both loops. This is your first single crochet.

Now it gets a little tricky. It can be hard to tell where to put your hook since you’re essentially working your first row and your foundation chain simultaneously. If your first stitch is lying flat in front of you, turn it on its side so that you can see the “v” shape of the top stitches.

In the v-shape nearest the hook, insert your hook through both loops on top. It shouldn’t go into the space you created. There should be tension as you insert your hook. Pull up a loop, pull through one. Yarn over, pull through two.

Continue working on your FSC until you’ve reached the desired number of stitches.

Why Does My Crochet Circle Look Like A Hexagon?

If your circle looks like a hexagon, it is because you’re increasing in the same spot with each new row, essentially stacking them on top of each other. Instead of spacing out your increases to be on the “corners” of your circle, increase every other stitch or every three stitches.

Conclusion

Hopefully, as you finish this article, you’ve found out why your crochet is rippling or wavy and how to fix it. In the future, be sure to reference this guide to learn how to flatten a crochet circle, get even tension, and create a secure foundation.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:38:24.

The post How To Fix Crochet Rippling (Wavy & Circles ) first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

There may be nothing more frustrating than having a completed project begin to unravel. The days or weeks of work that went into it feel wasted if the result falls apart! There is a lot of debate in the crochet community about how extensive your efforts need to be to keep your project from unraveling, but for the most part, it’s pretty simple.

In this article, I’m going to teach you why your projects are unraveling and how to stop crochet from unraveling, tie off a finished project, and weave in your ends so you have a piece that lasts forever.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

To stop crochet from unraveling, leave long ends when changing colors or cutting off. Weave the ends back into the stitches with a blunt tapestry needle by dipping over and under them horizontally, then vertically.

If you’re interested in a more step-by-step process for ending a piece and weaving in your ends, or if you want to see other popular methods for securing your ends, stick around to the end of the article.

Why Is My Crochet Blanket Unraveling?

The most likely reason your crochet blanket is unraveling is that you didn’t leave long enough ends between color changes, or at the end of your project, the knot has come undone, and the stitches are falling apart.

I can’t tell you how many veteran crocheters I’ve seen tie a standard double knot, then snip their ends as close as they can to the knot. Many people do this, and unfortunately, after washes and wear, this knot will come undone, and there’s nothing left for you to use to repair the project.

How you end the project will predict how long it lasts, so it’s essential to do it right. If you’re unsure if you’re following standard procedure, I’ll detail how to end the project step-by-step in the next section.

How To Fasten Off

Cut your yarn with about six inches left to fasten off your crochet project. Grab the tail of the yarn with your hook and pull it through the loop on your hook until the end comes all the way through. Pull the end tightly to secure the knot.

I think this may be one of the few things people make too complicated. You don’t have to do an elaborate series of knots. One knot and some careful weaving will be plenty to secure the end of your work. 

How To Weave In The Ends – Under and Over Method

To weave in the end of your work, put your tail through the eye of a tapestry needle. Use the needle to go back into the stitches, pushing it under and over every other stitch for three or four inches. Then, do the same thing vertically.

It can be hard to tell where to put the needle, but part of the point of weaving it in is to get the end lost in the stitches. If you go through one and split it, even better. To clarify where you’re weaving the end into, you’re trying to create a 90-degree angle with it. After going over the stitches parallel to the rows, go perpendicular.

How To Weave In The Ends – The Tunnel Method

To weave in the end of your work with the tunnel method, thread your tail through a tapestry needle, then slip it inside the loop that goes through the middle of your stitches. Once you’ve gone three or four inches, move down a row and go back the other way.

There is a front and a back face to your stitch as further explanation. You’re trying to slip in between them.

Some people recommend unraveling the end by picking apart the strings that make up the end and weaving the separate strands into their separate tunnels. All this does is add an extra layer of security.

Another variation of the method is to crochet over the ends as you pick up a new color or thread. To do this, you’ll hold the thread over the top of or to the back of the previous row and crochet normally, making sure to keep the thread inside of each new stitch.

How To Weave In The Ends On A Granny Square

To weave in the ends on a granny square, use a tapestry needle or your crochet hook to go back and forth along the direction of same-color stitches with the ends. Make sure to weave in the ends on the wrong side of your work.

Weaving ends on a granny square is a little more complicated for a few reasons. Number one, you’ve got small sections of color that limit the places you can put your end. Number two, you have a lot of ends in a small space.

For this, it’s not much different than any other process, but as your granny squares will be taking a lot of pulling and pressure from the squares around it, and you’ll likely be washing and using this piece a lot, it’s best to be diligent with your ends. Go back and forth through same-color sections two or even three times, making sure not to peak through to the front side of the square.

As a general tip, weave your ends in as you go for a granny square. Maybe every two rows. If you waited until the end of a project to do any weaving, you might decide to give up the hobby altogether and try a life of homelessness.

How Do I Keep My Crochet Tight?

To keep your crochet project tight, you need to consider the weight and drape of your project and your tension. If your project gets too heavy and loose, your ends may come undone easier than if it stays in shape.

Especially with sweaters, you may have the issue of your yarn expanding and getting loose as you wear it. This is natural, and it is sometimes a great thing. If you didn’t account for it, though, your perfectly-sized wearable can suddenly become too big for you. 

Make swatches and put them through the wringer to get a feel for how heavy yarn is. Pull on them, wash and dry them, hang something heavy from them. This is a great way to see how your stitches will hold up with wear. If the stitches get loose and your project gets more extensive, you may need to consider this with sizing and adjust accordingly.

Tension is probably the most crucial aspect of keeping your project looking and feeling tight. There’s no easy way to get perfect tension except through practice.

Experiment with how you hold your hook, how you hold your yarn, and how you’re getting your yarn. If you’re pulling from the outside of a skein, you may benefit from pulling from the inside instead. If you have yarn barf or tangle problem, try wrapping your yarn into a ball before starting a project.

Each of these components could impact the tension of your project, so play around with what gives you the best-looking piece and what will withstand wear. And make sure you’re leaving long ends and weaving them in, as this is just another defense against loosening work.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:33:20.

The post How To Stop Crochet From Unraveling (4 Tips) first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

Crochet is a pretty excellent multi-tasking hobby for those with good hearing, but if you ever really want to watch a show while you’re working, you’re mostly out of luck. Stealing a few glimpses at the screen is good enough for most, but what if it were possible to get every juicy detail on the screen without missing a stitch on your project?

In this article, I’m going to teach you how to crochet without looking, so you can stay engaged with your visual media, save your neck, and get work done simultaneously.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

To crochet without looking at your work, stick to stitches with large gaps like the granny stripe and the v-stitch. Feel where to insert the stitch with your yarn-holding hand and hold your hook in a pencil grip to be more accurate with your reach. 

While it’s easier, especially for those who aren’t quite an expert yet, to crochet with looking by relying on certain stitches, it is possible to crochet without looking for more intricate stitches that require the hook to go into the “V.

If you’re looking for ways to practice this skill, some things that might cause hang-ups, and specific crochet techniques that are conducive to working blind, then you might want to stick around for the rest of the article.

Best Stitches For Crocheting Without Looking

The granny stripe and v-stitch are much easier stitches to practice when learning to crochet without looking. These stitches have chain gaps where you’ll insert your hook in the next row, making it easier to feel out than with other single stitches.

The Granny Stripe Stitch

The granny stripe stitch, often used in granny squares, is probably the best stitch to practice crochet without looking. This stitch will create clusters separated by large chain spaces that will be easier to feel with your off-hand.

To begin, start with a chain in a multiple of three. Create a row of single crochet, then chain two. Double Crochet (DC) in the first stitch, skip two stitches, then crochet three dc into the third stitch from your first dc. Repeat this pattern until the end of the row, where you will only crochet two dc in the final stitch.

As you’ll notice, this pattern creates large gaps between stitches where you’ve skipped two. This allows you to easily feel where to insert your hook with your yarn-holding hand. On your second row, you’ll chain two, then crochet three dc into the spaces along the row. You’ll only crochet one DC into the last stitch at the end of row two. 

For row three, you’ll crochet the same as you did for row one. For row four, you’ll repeat row two, and so on.

The V-Stitch

To start the v-stitch, create a foundation row in a multiple of three. In the fourth chain from the hook, work a double crochet, chain one, and then double crochet in the same stitch. Skip two, then work another v-stitch down the row.

You’ll start with a chain two and turn when you move to the second row. Be careful when looking for the gap. Don’t crochet into the space on either side of the v-space: double crochet, chain one, double crochet into the chain one space.

It may be difficult to tell at first where to put the next v-stitch, but after the second row, it will be much easier to tell. When crocheting with the purpose of not looking at your work, practice feeling with your off-hand where the spaces are, not relying on your eyes.

How To Hold Your Hook To Crochet Without Looking

To crochet without looking efficiently, try working with a pencil grip that will require less hook twisting. To use this grip, hold the hook close to the tip, pinched between your index finger and your thumb. Push the hook through the stitches without twisting your wrist. 

If the pencil grip doesn’t work for you, you can still practice this method with the grip you are most comfortable using. If you’re struggling, try out other grips to see if they help you catch the yarn with the hook more easily.

Techniques To Crochet Without Looking

To crochet without looking and relying on a stitch with large gaps, try using your off-hand to pinch the next stitch where you will insert your hook. Inserting the hook into the stitch will push through and touch your index or middle finger.

As you continue down the row, you’ll scoot your fingers to the adjacent stitch, using the hook on your middle finger as reassurance that you’re going into the right stitch.

Start By Looking Off To The Side

Another technique to crochet without looking at the project is to practice looking away in baby steps. This will acclimate you to the feeling of not looking at your work constantly.

Start by looking past your work, either over the top or to the side. Your eyes aren’t directly focused on the piece, which will make you feel a little bit uncomfortable to start. Get used to the feeling of relying on your peripheral vision before you advance to the next baby step.

After this, begin looking at your TV or computer screen while keeping the project in your peripheral vision. You’ve still got a sight on your project, but you’re acclimating yourself to looking up instead of down.

Now, instead of keeping your project in your vision, try closing your eyes. Over time, as you practice this, try to increase the duration of time when your eyes are closed.

After these exercises, you’re ready to try watching the screen (or doing whatever else you want to do) without keeping your project in sight at all. At this stage, it will take time as you try to increase the increments you don’t have to look down. 

The Best Tools To Crochet Without Looking

To reduce the struggle you might face when trying to crochet without looking, make sure you’re using yarn that doesn’t split, a hook that doesn’t catch the yarn and isn’t too slippery, and maybe try out a Tunisian hook for a more straightforward method of crocheting blind.

“Splitty” yarn is going to be one of your biggest obstacles when trying to make precise movements without looking at the project. Play around with the yarn you’re using by crocheting normally. If you find yourself re-doing stitches because you’ve punched through the middle of a stitch, don’t use that yarn.

Another consideration is your hook. Make sure you’re getting a smooth pull when creating stitches with whatever hook you choose.

Finally, Tunisian crochet may be an excellent tool for crocheting without looking for certain periods. You may have to pay close attention to where your stitches go on the forward pass. On the backward pass, however, you’re just pulling through loops. It may help you practice letting go of your discomfort of looking away from the project.

Hopefully, with these tips, you can learn how to crochet without looking, so you can feel more engaged with your favorite media and your loved ones while working on projects.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:28:48.

The post How To Crochet Without Looking (2 Stitches You Can Try!) first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.