Ever wanted to learn how to crochet a corner to corner (aka C2C) blanket before? This type of crochet practice is growing ever-popular thanks to a re-emergence of the art of crochet through social media – and in this guide, I’ll take you through how to crochet C2C with ease.

What does C2C in crochet mean? 

C2C stands for ‘corner to corner’ crochet, and is actually fairly self-explanatory. It involves building a piece starting in one corner by forming small squares, or tiles, increasing for a number of rows before decreasing and finishing your work in the opposite corner. The most impressive part of this is that despite the detailed look of C2C, it really only uses some of the simplest crochet stitches. 

Once you’ve mastered this technique, you’ll be amazed at the range of projects you can use it on! The structure of C2C makes it perfect for building square or rectangular projects, so you’ll often see this stitch for larger items like blankets and scarves. You may even find patterns for wall hangings and other decorative items.

Let’s take a look at how to do it!

How to C2C crochet – where to start

C2C crocheting is a great place to start if you have never done crocheting before. It only requires you to learn how to do three basic stitches! These are the double crochet stitch, the slip stitch, and the chain stitch.

Pick your yarn and the hook you are most comfortable with, or the one closest to hand, and let’s get started!

Most guides on how to C2C will have you start with what will be the bottom right corner of your piece and have you work your way towards the top left corner. Of course, as you become more adept and confident with your hook, you’ll be able to alter patterns so you can start in any direction you feel comfortable. 

C2C patterns are usually presented as numbered graphs. Numbers are aligned on grids making the pattern pretty easy to follow, even for a novice. A great tip is to mark alongside a number on the grid to track your progress. It’s a handy trick when pausing in the middle of a large piece. 

C2C grids are really easy to find online. Or, if you’re super creative and fancy a challenge, you can try making your own grid from scratch. Just make sure to number your grid and mark any color changes carefully!

Some C2C abbreviations, explained

Symbols on crochet patterns usually include a key or legend with the letters and numbers assigned to each stitch. The main abbreviations and terms you’ll find are as follows:

4-tr cl = 4 Treble Cluster

Sl-st = Slip stitch and symbolizes a chain 

Tr = Treble crochet

Dc = Double crochet

Hdc = Half double crochet

Sc = Single crochet

Fo = Finish off

Yo = Yarn over

Chain = Ch (this can have a number next to it, such as Ch 3, to indicate how many stitches you need in a chain)

A word to the wise, don’t risk getting confused by the terminology! UK and US terms sometimes use the same term for different stitches. Be sure to check which terminology your pattern creator has used.

Starting your C2C piece – how to crochet a C2C square or rectangle

Right – let’s really get into how to crochet corner to corner. Here’s a few handy steps to help you get into the process – and don’t worry if your work isn’t perfect right away!

Using increase rows in C2C

When starting with C2C, you’ll kick things off with increase rows. This is where you’ll need to start building up tiles in diagonal rows – and once you’ve increased to the point where you’re at a size you’re comfortable with, you’ll need to decrease again.

Believe me, this is likely easier in practice than it is to read up on! Therefore, I highly recommend you practice along with this guide, especially if C2C is completely new to you. Here are the steps you’ll need to follow for the first two rows, and then repeat.

First Row

1. Ch 6 (chain six stitches together)
2. Dc into your Ch 4 (fourth chain), using your hook
3. Dc again into the next two chains

Second Row

1. Ch 6 
2. Dc into your Ch 4, using your hook
3. Sl-st (slip stitch) to Ch 3, and turn from the first row
4. Ch 3
5. Dc three to Ch 3, and turn your chain

For all rows beyond here, simply follow the process. It takes a bit of practice, but once you’ve tried increasing once, you’ll likely start to feel the knack for it.

From here, of course, you’re going to need to know how to decrease and complete your C2C – so that’s where we’re heading to next.

Using decrease rows in C2C

Firstly, don’t worry if it doesn’t look like you’re decreasing anything – what this stage of the process offers is the chance for you to take tiles off your rows.

It’s crucial to decrease properly so that you can make sure your edges are nice and flat. Essentially, decreasing rows in C2C ensures that your crochet effectively ‘finishes’ somewhere, and doesn’t tail on forever!

When you’re working to a set pattern or grid, you’ll normally start decreasing rows when you get to the broadest side.

Up to this point, you’ve been increasing all the way. Still following me? Great – here’s your step by step guide to C2C decrease (keeping in mind our glossary from above!).

1. Don’t Ch 3! Instead, Sl-st for every Dc you come across
2. Then, Sl-st and turn the chain
3. Ch 3
4. Dc three in Ch 3, then turn into your last row

Where might I use increase and decrease rows?

It’s worth mentioning that you might not need to use increase and decrease rows in all projects. Specifically, the example listed above is handy if you want to crochet a simple rectangle or square as a starting point.

As you start to read more patterns and check out more complex designs, it’s worth branching out into additional video tutorials and walkthroughs.

Reading C2C charts

Reading C2C crochet charts is actually relatively simple. You’ll traditionally start in the bottom right hand corner of any grid using increase rows, working up towards the top left.

Your increase rows are traditionally numbered vertically on the right hand side, while your decrease rows are numbered horizontally along the top.

Can I use any type of yarn for C2C crochet?

Yes – in all honesty, there’s no harm in using your favorite yarn to start with C2C. However, I’d generally recommend you look to invest in a variety of colors for your crochet box from a brand that’s well-loved and recognized.

Just as you’d make sure you have the best hooks to crochet with, it makes sense that you stock up on high-quality fabric, too.

Overall, I’d recommend looking for yarn that’s of premium quality. While C2C may seem fairly simple and may not always produce the most outlandish of results, that doesn’t mean you should avoid investing in quality resources.

Treat yourself to some high-quality yarn, and don’t be afraid to reach out to crocheting communities online – they are lovely people!

Can I change colors during C2C?

You can absolutely change colors during C2C crochet – after all, how boring would your designs be if you only ever used the same color time and again?

It’s worth mixing things up, and if you’re set on creating some unique designs, it’s worth learning how to switch from shade to shade.

If you’re following a guide, chart or graph, you’ll be informed as to when you need to switch color. Don’t panic! It’s here where you will need to make sure you change your color ahead of time, making one last dc in your base color in the previous tile. 

To start, you’re going to need to complete your Dc with a Yo of your new, chosen color. This means you’ll need to avoid the temptation of Yo’ing that third Dc. Once your new color is Yo’d, make sure to Sl-St Ch 3, turn your chain at the next tile, and then Ch 3 again.

You’ll then need to triple Dc in Ch 3, yet again, turning the chain. Hey presto – you’re working with a brand new color, adding a bit more character to your design.

Swapping colors during C2C crochet can get a little bit muddled, so it’s best to try keeping your separate balls of yarn assigned to separate skeins.

This way, you can ensure you’re not twisting or knotting up your fabric, and you can access it all easily when you come back to your project.

I’d advise you to avoid trying to complete a C2C project in one sitting – it’s perfectly fine to come back to your design after a while! Just remember to store your C2C as flat as possible, otherwise it’s at risk of bending or warping.

If that happens, you’re going to need to block or steam it back into shape.

What can I make using C2C? 

C2C does not have to be square! Simply by decreasing or increasing rows, it’s easy to make rectangles – but you can adapt the shape to suit your individual requirements.

As you’ll see from available patterns online, you can really go wild with a variety of different clothes, accessories, patches, and more. One of the best reasons to get into C2C, too, is the fact that your designs will be completely reversible.

You can craft C2C and flip it for display purposes or add things like beads, lace, or buttons on one side. The choice is yours!

C2C pieces can also be folded and sewn either end to make cushion covers, purses or bags. You can decide what size openings or flap to incorporate and fold accordingly.

For example, to make a zippered makeup bag, you will need a medium to small rectangle. Fold it longways and use a flap to fasten with a button of two pieces of ribbon to form a bow tie – it’s a great look!

For a cushion cover, you can choose to use a rectangle or square and simply stitch a zip on the side to open. A useful tip for cushions is to stitch your crochet square or rectangle onto a dish towel, so one side is easy to iron and an instant fix.

This means you can replicate the pattern of crocheted yarn for two items and use less yarn and time in crocheting the entire piece.

You can even create unique wall hangings in C2C, too! Consider creating your own names, phrases, characters and logos – there’s thousands of patterns online you can choose from to get started.

To ensure your wall hangings retain their shape, it’s a good idea to back them with a piece of fabric. Felt requires no hemming.

A dish towel for a larger piece or face cloth for a smaller piece works well too – plus, they have the advantage of being robust enough to attach a piece of wood, pole or piece of string to, in order to hang your wall art! 

Where can I find C2C patterns and resources online?

You’re in luck – there are huge repositories of C2C crochet pattern grids for you to get into on the web. I’d normally suggest checking out social media first as a priority – for example, take a look at boards on Pinterest, and take a look out for relevant hashtags on Instagram and TikTok.

Do also make a point of browsing YouTube for tutorials you can follow along!

This guide has, after all, only been an introduction to what you could possibly achieve through C2C crochet. Let your imagination run wild – you never know what you might create!

If you’re particularly new to crochet, period, learning how to C2C crochet will open up all kinds of doors for you.

Originally posted 2022-08-03 21:39:51.

The post How To Crochet Corner to Corner (C2C) – Your Complete first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

Ever thought about cutting down on clothing clutter? Knowing how to minimize your wardrobe for the better can take time, but there are plenty of amazing benefits.

We likely all use wardrobes every day – we alter them frequently – and it’s safe to say that many of us can’t be without them. And yet, very few of us actually take the time to take care of our wardrobes. 

By this, we mean taking the time to consider what we actually need and want from our clothing collections. The sad reality is that a lot of us feel underwhelmed and disappointed when we open our wardrobes in the morning. 

We can spend ages rifling through clothes trying to find an outfit that will suit the day. Why does finding the ideal set of clothes have to cause us so much stress – and take up so much time?

In this guide, I’ll take you through what you need to know about sorting out your wardrobe for the better. Don’t worry – it can actually be a lot of fun – providing you’re willing to be a little ruthless along the way!

Why should I minimize my wardrobe?

You know you need to minimize wardrobe clutter when you simply have too many clothes spilling out all over the place – and when it feels as though you barely wear any of them.

Sadly, many of us have poor relationships with our wardrobes for multiple reasons, and none of them are the wardrobe’s fault! 

Most of us tend to buy things in bulk, too. Some of us shop for clothes to feel good about ourselves, when things are on sale, convincing ourselves we have found a bargain – the list goes on.

Then, when all of these clothes enter our wardrobes, some stay there forever because they never fit, they’re uncomfortable, they fall out of style… and ultimately, many of us find that we can’t bear to part with these items.  

Let’s be clear – this can be a very unhealthy habit. It’s not only doing your self-esteem any good, it’s squeezing every last inch of that wardrobe when it’s completely unnecessary.

What’s more, you’re contributing to increasing waste levels by buying up fashion and leaving it to clog up your home.

So, what do you do? The only thing that can be done. Minimize your wardrobe. 

This means taking a harsh look at the clothes that you own, deciding what to do with each and every piece, and breaking free from bad habits.

What’s more, if you find an item or two you don’t want to wear any more, you could upcycle them into a fancy cushion or even sell them on to someone who really wants it.

First things first: capsule closets

When looking at how to minimize your wardrobe, you may have come across the term ‘capsule closet’. It’s an increasingly popular way to cut down on clothing excess – it’s a system that’s eco-friendly, hyper-functional, and easily achievable. 

A capsule closet or wardrobe is a term that refers to a small collection of clothes that should be functional, comfortable, the perfect size for you, and similar in style. They are deemed to be essential items of clothing that you can keep for years without them going out of vogue, too. Items such as simple white shirts, jeans, black dresses, sneakers, and boots – the list goes on.

The idea behind capsuling is to keep as few items as possible – and to only keep the ones that are essential. It goes a little bit beyond the popular Marie Kondo idea of keeping everything that ‘sparks joy’! 

‘Essential’ means just that – the clothes you keep need to meet requirements relating to their size, wearability, style, and condition. 

As more and more people are becoming interested in being more eco-friendly with their clothing choices, capsule wardrobes have exploded in popularity online.

However, when you are new to the concept (or organizing at all), this type of idea can seem daunting! This is usually the case for those of us who tend to be very attached to our clothes (and adept at finding new ones).

The idea with the capsule wardrobe is only to buy what you need, when you need it. What’s more, you’d only ever donate or remove an ‘essential’ item of clothing that can no longer be used, usually because it is ruined beyond repair (hopefully due to use!).

Capsule wardrobes have proven to be super-efficient and organizing clothing across the board – this idea can also make things more functional, and budget-friendly. By teaching yourself to only buy what you need when you need it, you reduce frivolous behavior. It’s a great exercise in mindset, too!

Of course, stripping your wardrobe to its bare bones can seem scary. If you have a few favorite dresses, shirts, tops, pairs of shoes, etc – give yourself a little slack if you are just getting started. However, to really minimize your wardrobe, you’ll need to be harsh. 

Let’s put this all into practice.

How to minimize your wardrobe

Step 1: Start by taking everything out 

No, seriously – clear out your wardrobe completely. Remove all your clothes and accessories, and place them temporarily on the bed. The first step to learning how to minimize your wardrobe is just to get everything out and in the open. It can be a great stress relief!

It can be difficult to work through our wardrobes when everything is piled on top of each other. It can feel overwhelming, which usually leads us to stop and move onto something else – or, we get distracted along the way!

That is why starting by taking everything out of your wardrobe is usually the best idea. As long as your collection is piled somewhere you have space to maneuver around and access, you’re doing great.

Once you have removed everything, it is a good idea to take a look at the space that you actually have remaining. That’s an empty wardrobe, drawers, etc – they will look bare, but this is space you’ll need to maximize.

Think carefully about how you want to use this space. Do you need boxes to store items in? Do you prefer hanging everything up? It’s worth considering what’s in here already, and whether or not you have the space to bring in more useful solutions.

When it comes to coat hangers, be ruthless. If you have any that are old, broken, or unsuitable for your clothes, then get rid of them. These can easily accrue over time, and they are huge wastes of plastic. In future, avoid asking to keep the hangers on any clothes you buy – most clothing retailers give you the option.

It is wise to keep about four extra coat hangers, just in case any new clothes make it into your wardrobe. Otherwise, keep the rest in storage, ask your friends and family if they need any extra, or find a local recycling solution to get rid of any metal or plastic.

You can also donate them if they are in good condition, and if your local charity shop or second-hand shop is willing to accept them. Always check beforehand – as charity shops can get easily overwhelmed.

You could also consider getting baskets for storage in your closet to hold separate items and accessories such as belts, scarves, handbags, hats, gloves, etc. This way, you will have a dedicated space to put all of the items you might just leave about or in the back of a drawer. 

Now – before we start putting anything back in the wardrobe, give it a good clean and air it out. Most of our closets gather a lot of dust over time, so ensure that your new space is somewhere you are happy to put your clothes. Grab a duster or a handheld vacuum and get it looking great again.

Now, here’s the fun part – let’s take a look at the contents of your wardrobe. 

Step 2: Get rid of the clothes that have never fit 

All of us buy clothes that don’t fit us. Either it is due to the fact that we went for something in a size we are aiming for, they happened to be on sale but only in that size, or because we ordered them online or bought them without checking the sizing properly. There’s also the famous line, ‘I’ll slim into it’! 

If you’re embarking on a new regime to better fit into your clothes, then great – but you’ll need to think seriously about your commitment. Getting rid of clothes that don’t fit you isn’t the end of the world – and once you are in a shape you are confident with, you can revisit your wardrobe and consider getting some better-fitting outfits.

But, let’s not get ahead of ourselves!

Holding onto clothes simply because we are familiar with them can be destructive. So can buying and keeping clothes that never feel or look good on us. We’re focusing mainly on clothes you may have had for years – but you’ve done nothing with. When you open your wardrobe and see an outfit you’re desperate to get into – it’s easy to get a bit depressed. Why put yourself through such stress?

So, no matter how much you paid for it, how much you like the style, or even how much you want to be able to fit into it, it’s time to get rid of that item of clothing that simply doesn’t fit you. If it’s been three years or more, consider buying more suitable clothes later on in time.

This is a great way to start clearing out your wardrobe – and it’s worth piling up non-fitting clothes to take to your local thrift shop, or selling online.

Step 3: Get rid of – or upcycle – damaged or very old clothes

Many of us keep clothes well past their wearability. This can be because we simply like the way that they look, feel, or maybe they are pieces that happen to mean a lot to us. However, clinging to items that can no longer even be defined as being clothing is never a good idea! 

Whether they have holes, stains, threads loose, or anything irreparable, it is time to get rid of them – or, if you’re particularly creative, you could rework an old shirt, dress, or pair of jeans into something brand new. Consider making it into a cushion, a blanket, a bag – this way, you will still get to keep the item and all of the memories that it carries, without having to keep it in your wardrobe. 

Of course, for those clothes that hold less sentimental value, you might want to recycle as rags or dusters. These are going to come in very handy!

If your worn items aren’t particularly old, you might be able to replace them. If you search online and describe the item perfectly, then the chances are that there is a similar piece out there that you can buy that will be of much better quality! Try online marketplaces – eBay, Facebook, Craigslist, etc. – as buying second-hand clothing (providing you are comfortable) will help to cut down on your carbon footprint.

Step 4: Pack away any seasonal clothes

A great way of creating more room in your wardrobe is by packing away your seasonal clothes. Are you really going to need that scarf or cagoule in the middle of July? Probably not.

You may be able to easily store seasonal clothing in old suitcases, backpacks, boxes, and even vacuum bags to save on space. Keep them in your garage, in a cool, dry area, a separate wardrobe in the house – just somewhere they will be safe from the moisture, easy to access, but out of the way. 

It is best to keep a coat, a scarf, a pair of gloves, and some boots in your closet at all times, just for those oddly cold days in the spring, and the same goes for the winter and lighter clothes. 

Step 5: Go through your underwear and socks 

One of the biggest problems that many of us have is never sorting through our socks and underwear! Underwear and socks are, for many people, two priority items of clothing that get changed every single day. So, naturally, we go through a lot of them! 

It can be easy to think that we will keep them with us as emergency items – however, more often than not, they just clog up our drawers and wardrobes and never really bring much excitement (or, to quote Marie Kondo again, ‘spark joy’).

So – once again, it’s time to be ruthless. Make some room in your underwear drawer, get rid of the items that are long past usable, and take the time to buy replacements that you can rely on for a while. When they start to rub or wear down, repeat the cycle.

The tricky part with underwear and staying sustainable is recycling. Even if you clean your underwear and socks thoroughly, there’s no way you’ll be able to take them to a local charity shop – they will be refused on grounds of health and safety. What’s more, would you happily buy second-hand underwear? Probably not!

Therefore, try and find local resources where you can send fabric to be fully recycled – otherwise, these are items that may just need throwing away – for the sake of not being completely gross.

When considering bras in this conundrum, however, there are some resources that will happily accept donations – some bra retailers and even women’s refuges may be interested in receiving such items.

Step 6: Start making piles

Now, it’s time to get to the real organizing. Now that all of your clothes have been taken out of the wardrobe and you have filtered through most of the junk, it is time to make separate piles based on where your clothes will now go. Here are the key piles that you will need to make (and some of them may sound familiar if you’ve ever been through this before)…

Things to keep

Naturally, the first pile that you should make is one for clothes that you plan to keep. The tricky part about this pile is forcing yourself to take a hard look at your clothes so that the pile does not just become a pile of all of your existing outfits! 

The clothes that you keep should be in good condition, comfortable, and make you feel good when you wear them. That goes for your day clothes, evening clothes, and even your pajamas. 

Many of us tend to keep older clothes in the hope that we can indeed wear them as pajamas – however, more often than not, they simply end up on a different shelf, still not to be worn.

A good rule of thumb is to ask yourself whether or not you will miss this piece of clothing if it is gone. If not, then it is definitely time to put it elsewhere. This part of organizing can be very difficult if you have a sentimental attachment to some items.

If that’s the case, simply ask yourself “Will I ever wear this again?” – if the answer is a no, even a reluctant one, consider reusing it for a cushion cover or a craft project. This way, you won’t have to say goodbye, and you’re not cluttering up.

Things to donate/sell

For any items that you really don’t want and that are still in relatively good condition, create a pile to sell or donate. Never throw away items of clothing unless – as mentioned – they are pieces of underwear or socks that no one will want to pick up!

Nowadays, selling second-hand clothing is very easy, with various online stores and apps helping you to do so. It is a great way of getting some extra money for your new clothes and ensuring that the items that you no longer want will go to someone who actually does. 

For those you can’t sell, then donating them to your local thrift / Goodwill or second-hand clothes shop is ideal. You could also check with your friends and family whether or not they would like to take a look at some of your clothes to donate, as they may like to take on a few hand-me-downs!

Things to recycle

Not all of your clothes may be in a good enough condition to be donated or sold. However, that does not mean that you should simply throw them away. Many clothes can be reused, more often than not as rags – as mentioned – and you never really know when you’ll need a duster in a pinch.

Simply tear up unsellable clothes into big enough pieces for dish towels, cleaning rags, dusters, etc. You could also re-use them by making them into pet beds, bags, quilts, art pieces and more.

The important thing is to not put them in a box – indefinitely waiting to be reused. Try to keep them out and do take the time to turn them into something else. By doing so, you could save yourself quite a bit of money on buying new things, and you will significantly reduce your carbon footprint! 

Get rid of doubles

Look at the clothes that you plan on keeping, and consider those that are very similar – do you really need multiples of the same thing? Maybe not! 

Many of us end up with jumpers, leggings, trousers, t-shirts, jeans, and more that are practically identical. While having two of one item can often be helpful, having more is just a burden. 

Therefore, choose the better one of the two, or two of the best of something, and get rid of the other(s). Again, it’s worth being ruthless.

In order to choose the best item in the selection, consider the size, the material, the quality, the feel, etc. It can be difficult to get rid of items that you like (and that are perfectly wearable) – however, filling your wardrobe with multiple versions of the same item just limits your tastes – and it seriously reduces space and functionality. 

Instead, try to minimize the number of clothes that you have simply by keeping one or two versions of the same thing. 

The maybe pile

Then, of course, there is the dreaded maybe pile. Now, some would suggest not creating this pile at all, as it can lead us to not throwing anything away – however, it might still have a purpose. 

The truth is that many of us buy things on a whim, whether they just happen to be in the style of the moment, at a good price, or something that we wish we could wear at some point in future. 

Sadly, more often than not, either we never wear them, or they only get worn once. The great thing about the maybe pile is that you do not necessarily have to part ways with them immediately – however, this pile is not for everything. What’s more, it’s a pile that’s easy to abuse and to fall into bad habits with.

So, in order to control your urges to put everything on the maybe pile, give yourself this rule – if you vow to wear an item more than once for the year ahead, then you can keep it. It’s worth giving yourself some tough love – and both your wardrobe and your future self will thank you for it!

This forces you to wear certain clothes more often and even take you out of your comfort zone – and if the year, season, or however long you wish to try the piece passes, it is time to donate or sell that item of clothing. 

Step 7: Organize the wardrobe itself

Now comes the fun part, putting all of your clothes back in your wardrobe. You should have a lot more room to deal with now that your extra clothes have been taken care of. This means plenty of space for your best clothes to breathe and for you to access easily – it’ll also feel nicer to see your favorite items from day to day, too! 

Remember to organize your wardrobe to make getting dressed easier. Keep smaller items such as gloves, belts, tights, handbags, etc, in their own special baskets or boxes. You can easily use simple storage boxes – you can buy them online or in most home stores if all else fails. 

The best boxes and crates to use are uniform, as they will give your wardrobe that extra-organized look. You can label them to make it easier for you to get the right one down when you need it. This is especially helpful for those of us who are shorter and have to spend a long time getting a stool and climbing our way up to the high shelves! 

Then, dedicate drawers and shelves to specific clothing items. It is a wise idea to look at folding hacks and tutorials online, especially if your clothes are in drawers. That way, when you open them to get your clothes out, you do not have to destroy the pile every time! 

Some like to go the extra mile and color-code their clothes – however, this is completely optional and can be difficult to keep up with. If it works for you, then give it a try.

When it comes to your hanging clothes, try to separate them between shirts, dresses, skirts, trousers, coats, and jackets, etc (naturally, not all of us wear skirts!). Again, this will give your wardrobe a more uniform look and will make it much easier for you to get to the things that you need quickly. 

When everything is done, it should look organized and leave you with some room to grow if you need to. You’re pretty much done!

Step 8: How to buy the right clothes 

…or, are you? Now that your wardrobe is a little emptier, you may feel tempted to buy some new clothes to fill it. However, you should only buy those clothes that you need.

This comes back to the concept of capsule closets – and yes, it might mean being a little ruthless with yourself for a bit longer, but it’s for your own peace of mind and self-care in the long run.

Above all, opt for quality items. In this fast-fashion world, it can be easy to choose clothes that are cheaper and appear to be budget-friendly. However, more often than not, they are of poor quality, and you end up having to buy a new pair of boots to replace the old ones.

What’s more, buying and disposing of extra items is only going to crank up your carbon footprint. You will find yourself buying clothes more frequently and spending more. 

Therefore, opt for designers or lines that you know and trust. Even if it means putting in more of an investment at the time, it will be worth it if they last you for longer and feel better. 

You should also opt for items that will fit you comfortably. If an item is not in your size, then leave it alone. 

What’s more, only choose clothes that you actually need and like! It can be easy to fall into trends – but they never last. If you are interested in an item, take a moment to ask yourself if you will still like it in a few years’ time. 

Finally, consider buying second-hand clothes. Thrift shopping is a savvy business, as is shopping for second-hand goods online. You can find some great vintage pieces, and you may even find that some of them are even from quality, well-known brands.

Buying second-hand means that you will reduce your carbon footprint and save yourself some money, too.

Step 9: Try and enjoy the process!

Now you know how to minimize your wardrobe, it’s important to keep an open mind, and to remember that you are doing yourself some long-term good. 

What’s more, when you sort through your old clothes, you get to take a stroll down memory lane. We all attach certain items of clothing to experiences and events, and it can be really nice getting to go through them and remember the good times. 

However, most importantly, you are making a good change for yourself and for the planet. Therefore, it’s a chance for you to feel great about doing your bit for carbon reduction.

What’s more, looking after your clothes can mean looking after your mental health. Many of us do not realize how badly the clutter in our homes affects the way we feel. Clutter is a prime enemy of happiness – it’s time to cut it out, responsibly and sustainably.

Having an organized wardrobe will save you time, energy, money, and effort every day. It can significantly improve your mood, not to mention the fact that it will have a significant impact on our planet. 

So, before thinking of burdening yourself with going through your wardrobe, try and see the lighter side of having a clear-out – and you might just have fun along the way, too!

Originally posted 2022-07-21 08:39:41.

The post How to Minimize Your Wardrobe (9 Easy Steps) first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

When it comes to your bedroom furniture, can you be sure that you’re doing your bit for the environment? While it may not be something you really think about immediately when shopping for beds, tables, and wardrobes, furniture manufacture will always generate carbon (and often use natural wood).

Therefore, have you ever considered investing in an eco-friendly nightstand?

An eco-friendly nightstand is either built with sustainable resources (and energy supplies, etc.), or one made from completely recyclable material. While this might sound a little ‘niche’ to some people, plenty of great homeware brands are giving eco-conscious people more sustainable choices than ever before.

I’ve done a bit of hunting around for you and have found three eco-friendly nightstands that are stylish, practical, and will save that little bit of carbon – and forest.

3 of the Best Eco-Friendly Nightstands

Small Wood Nightstand with Drawer – Raw Pine

Price: $150+

Buy on Etsy

This delightful nightstand is – as the name suggests – small, but mighty. Built in highly adaptable pine, this gorgeous furniture piece is made from completely reclaimed wood, meaning you’re never at risk of wasting unnecessary material. OwlDesigned, the manufacturer responsible for the nightstand, is one of Etsy’s best-reviewed and highlighted brands.

It doesn’t arrive with any staining or finishes, though you will find the stand fitted with felt padding beneath the feet to prevent marking on your floors. I especially like the fact that this nightstand is super-easy to put together, as well as the fact it won’t break the bank.

While it only has one drawer available, this nightstand offers plenty of room for bedroom knick-knacks and items you may need at short notice. Providing you have a Phillips screwdriver to hand, setting up this piece really shouldn’t take you long at all.

Pros: Very easy to put together, affordable price, reclaimed wood

Cons: Not as deep as some nightstands out there

Reclaimed Wood Rustic Bedside Table

Price: $83+

Buy on Etsy

Available from a growing enterprise, IntrinsicHaven, over at Etsy, this super-cute bedside table works well as both a bedroom piece and even as a lounge stand, offering an aesthetic that’s half farmhouse, half boathouse! It’s bursting with charm, and at less than $90 before shipping, it’s one of the best-priced reclaimed / recycled nightstands you’ll find through the retailer right now.

This is a barn wood piece that’s made from 100% recycled wood, and it offers stacks of characters thanks to retaining all kinds of knots and grooves. If you’re looking for a table or nightstand that retains natural aesthetics – with none of the unnecessary gloss or polish – this rustic piece might just appeal to you.

I love this table thanks to its sheer authenticity. It’s reportedly made from fence wood, and while that’s obvious when you take a closer look, it only adds more to the character! You can choose from several colors, and a second shelf to the bottom of the unit makes for additional space and storage should you need it.

Pros: Very well priced, completely reclaimed wood, fantastic aesthetic

Cons: None to speak of!

Recycled Bedside Table (Waste Coffee Husk)

Price: $298+

Buy on Etsy

For a little more of a premium price tag, this spectacular, rounded designer side table will bring a deep, mellow look to your bedroom with the added bonus of recycled material. Built from OSB, you’ll also find that this nightstand’s feet actually come from pallet bearers!

The name ‘coffee husk’ in the description isn’t a fancy tag – this nightstand from TomasAndJani is actually part-finished with coffee bean husk that would otherwise be thrown away into landfill! The door is stained in this coffee husk, providing a deep, resonating color – great for adding an extra dimension of atmosphere!

This is a handmade option that stands out from the pack thanks to its exceptional finishing and care – who says you can’t enjoy a rustic or recycled table without a few of the fancier touches you’d expect from leading homeware providers?

Pros: Wonderful color and aesthetic, coffee husk finishing, made from recycled wood

Cons: May be a little expensive compared to other recycled wood options out there

Where can I find eco-friendly bedroom furniture online?

Finding eco-friendly furniture such as nightstands is, thankfully, getting easier. With more and more of us moving towards sustainability in all that we do, eco-friendly manufacture is no longer a small niche – it’s a standard that millions are holding their homeware brands to. That said, it really does pay to look closely at the details for each and every piece of furniture you invest in.

Big homeware brands and stores across the US may host some sustainable furniture online if you take a cursory glance. What’s more, you may be able to find a few options available through Amazon. However, as you can see from my list above, the number one resource for eco-friendly creations is Etsy.

With Etsy, you can be more confident in your choice – as you are generally trading with individual sellers and small businesses. These are people who often hand-make their creations from scratch, and don’t rely on machines or carbon-heavy processes. It’s also easier, on the whole, to find out where wood and other material have come from.

Why should I buy an eco-friendly nightstand?

Every piece of furniture in your home requires material of some kind – natural or synthetic – and in many cases, beds, sofas and more are built using large-scale assembly and machinery. This, as you can imagine, might be efficient – but it means you’re buying into a lot of carbon processing.

What’s more, synthetic material is not always the best way to go. Avoiding wooden nightstands and other pieces isn’t necessarily the answer – you need to look for brands and manufacturers who use reclaimed or recycled wood.

Millions of trees worldwide are still being felled unnecessarily – and with this, there is still incredible wastage. Deforestation leads to habitat destruction – and it’s also preventing us from making larger strides against a carbon-neutral future.

Therefore, if you are in the market for a nightstand or bedside table, look for a sustainable, recycled or reclaimed option first.

Originally posted 2022-07-20 21:02:03.

The post 3 Eco-Friendly Nightstands Worth A Second Look first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

When crocheting in rows, it’s typical to chain one or two, depending on the stitch, turn your work, and crochet back the other way. A consequence of this crochet method is that every other row is wrong side facing, creating a lined effect. I’d venture a guess that most people don’t mind the way this looks, but if there were a way to keep the pretty side facing out the entire time, wouldn’t you be interested in giving it a try?

In this article, I will teach you how to crochet without turning the typical way, so your finished crochet pieces are more uniform.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

At the end of the row, put your hook through the backside of the last stitch of your work. Keeping the working yarn in front, pull the yarn through to the back. Pull your loop up, and then pull your working yarn through both loops from the front.

There are a few methods to keep your right side facing out when you crochet, and some of them are easier than others. Of course, it may be easier to visualize with a bit more instruction, too. If you’re interested in trying out the different methods or getting more detailed step-by-step instructions, check out the rest of the article.

Crochet Without Turning Your Work

There are several possible scenarios for a pattern or piece that would require you not to turn your work. One of these instances will be if you are working in the round. Working in the round is great for hats, amigurumi, socks, and lots of other apparel.

How To Crochet In The Round: Slip Stitch And Chain One

To crochet in the round, crochet the number of stitches required in the pattern, then make a circle with your work by putting your hook through your first stitch and pulling the yarn through both the stitch and the loop on your hook to make a slip stitch—chain one.

One of the most common methods for crocheting in the round requires you to work in rows but without turning. The pattern might suggest using stitch markers to keep track of the beginning of each row, so you don’t accidentally miss the last stitch and start “spiraling” upward.

For this method, you’ll work the number of stitches required for your pattern, then join it to the first stitch. To join, insert your hook into the first stitch and pull the yarn through. Instead of yarning over again, you’ll pull the first loop through the second loop to create a slip stitch.

Next, chain one to elevate your work to the next row. You’ll work your next row as usual and join at the end of each round with a slip stitch. Chain one again to begin a new row.

As easy as it is, this method does create a “seam,” where the tight slip stitch stands out from the rest of the work. There are other methods to join that avoid this.

Crochet Rows Without Turning

When working a flat piece, it seems pretty inevitable that turning must occur if you want to keep working in the same direction; however, by working backward or with your non-dominant hand, you can crochet rows without turning to keep the right side facing out.

How to Crochet Backwards

To crochet without turning, insert your hook into the back of your last stitch. Pull a loop through from the front to the back with your working yarn in front. Then, with your working yarn still in front, pull your yarn through both loops on the hook.

Crocheting backward is different than working a reverse stitch. Reverse stitches are used for borders, whereas working backward will have you working the same stitch without turning to keep the right side facing out.

This method is for working single crochet backward. 

At the end of your row, chain one, pull the loop on your hook out a bit to give yourself more flexibility. Insert your hook into the back of your last stitch, meaning the one at the end of your previous row. Make sure to go through both loops on the top of this stitch.

Pull a loop from the front to the back with your working yarn in front. Pull the loops up so your hook is parallel with your work, and you can see both loops on your hook.

With the yarn still in front of the work, pull through again to create a single crochet. Continue inserting your hook into the back of the work until you reach the end of the row. Then you can return to the normal single crochet.

How To Crochet With Your Non-Dominant Hand

To crochet without turning, chain one at the end of each standard row, then transfer your hook to your non-dominant hand. Work the row as usual with your working yarn in your dominant hand, inserting the hook through the front of the stitch.

This method is pretty self-explanatory but will likely be more challenging based on lack of practice.

At the end of the work, where you’re holding the hook in your dominant hand, chain one and transfer the hook to your non-dominant hand. Hold the yarn in your dominant hand, and insert your hook into the front of each stitch like normal.

This will feel odd, and it may be challenging to keep the tension consistent. Some people wrap the yarn around the hook with their dominant hand instead of grabbing the yarn with the hook.

Single Crochet Without Turning Over

At the end of the row, chain one, insert your hook through the front of the last stitch you worked on. Pull your yarn through to the front to draw up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops.

Doing single crochet without turning your work but without working through the back of the stitch is called reverse single crochet. This creates a nice, finished edge.

To work the reverse single crochet, chain one at the end of your regular row. The working loop should be on the side of your non-dominant hand. Insert your hook through the front of the last stitch you worked on in the previous row. Pull your yarn through the stitch from the back to pull up a loop.

Yarn over and pull through both loops. Continue working by inserting your hook into the next stitch from the front. Pull the yarn from the back to the front to create a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. Continue in this way until you reach the end of the row.

Do You Always Need A Turning Chain In Crochet?

If you’re working in the round in a spiral, you do not need the turning chain. You almost always need the turning chain to elevate the work to the next row. Without the turning chain, your work will look pinched, and there will be no distinction between rows.

To work in the round without a turning chain, continue working stitches in a circle without joining or chaining another stitch.

Now you know how to crochet without turning! I hope this guide has helped you overcome some of the usual difficulties with this method and you can continue enjoying crocheting together masterpieces.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:53:27.

The post How To Crochet Without Turning (4 Easy Tips) first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

Crochet is one of the most diverse fiber arts for a few reasons. A primary reason is that you can crochet with pretty much any material at nearly any size to do unique projects. Crocheting with embroidery floss is no different than with regular yarn. It simply means that your stitches (and most likely your finished pieces) will be smaller.

In this article, I’ll teach you how to crochet with embroidery floss, why you might want to give it a try, and give you some ideas for what you can make with this shiny, vibrant thread.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

To crochet using embroidery floss, use a 1 or 2mm hook to work your stitches as usual. To keep your stitches small and condensed, use a 1mm hook or below. You can use a bigger hook for looser stitches if you want a lacier-looking piece.

If you already know how to crochet, embroidery floss for your pieces won’t look much different. However, if you’re learning or interested in the kinds of projects you can complete with this unique medium, keep reading for project suggestions and instructions.

Crocheting With Embroidery Floss

To crochet with embroidery floss, make a slip knot on your hook. Pull the yarn through the loop. Do this several times to make a chain. Insert your hook into the second chain, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops.

While crocheting with a single piece of embroidery floss can make small or dainty projects, you can also add embroidery floss to your yarn by crocheting with both strands to create a unique, colorful, and textured look.

However, crocheting with this medium on its own is no different than crocheting with regular yarn or thread. If you’re an absolute beginner, I’ll go through a quick tutorial on doing a basic single crochet stitch used for keychains, bookmarks, amigurumi, and more.

You’ll make a slip knot to put on your hook to start. To do this, create a loop that looks like a fish. Pull your working thread (the thread attached to the ball) through this loop and tighten it over the hook.

Hold your floss in your non-dominant hand to make a semi-tight line between your hand and the work in progress. Wrap your hook around this thread to grab it with the hook, then pull it through the existing loop. Do this again and again until you’ve reached the number of chains you need.

When you’re ready to start the next row, insert your hook into the second chain from the hook. Wrap your hook around the working thread again and pull it back through to the front. Then, wrap the thread around the hook again and pull it through both loops.

Is Embroidery Floss The Same As Crochet Embroidery Thread?

Embroidery floss is six strands of embroidery thread wound together, and as loosely wound cotton, they come apart easily. This means it may not be as structurally sound or easy to work with as typical yarn and maybe more suited to smaller projects.

If you’re a beginner, you may not be fully aware of how the medium, down to the material of the yarn you use, can change the way a piece comes together. For example, it’s not typically a good idea to use 100% cotton yarn for t-shirts. It makes the piece heavy, and it doesn’t drape well.

The drape is an essential part of the way a wearable fits. Ideally, it drapes comfortably over the body and looks ordinary, not stiff. The stiff drape may happen with worsted weight acrylic yarn that is rough to the touch.

Embroidery floss with a small hook is not going to drape nicely. This means projects that need to be stiff, like headbands, purses, baskets, etc., would work great with this kind of thread and a tiny hook. Embroidery floss with a big hook would make bigger holes between stitches. This would be great for lacy doilies, fringe borders, or bags. This would also give an item a better drape.

Best Hook Size For Crocheting With Embroidery Floss

Just like with yarn, there are different sizes of embroidery floss. The thicker the floss, the bigger the hook size you’ll need. For bigger sizes, 3 and 5 flosses, somewhere between a size 1 or 2mm hook should suffice. For smaller 8 or 12 threads, use a .40 or .60mm hook.

When in doubt, your pattern should give you an idea of the best hook size to create the desired look. For example, in this miniature embroidery amigurumi pattern, the author suggests a .40 mm hook for a small sheep and a 1 mm hook for a big sheep.

Embroidery floss hook size is a complex topic, but I’ll try to answer it as precisely as I can.

For tight, rigid stitches often used in crochet amigurumi, use a small .40 or .60mm crochet hook. Use a more significant 1 or 2mm crochet hook for loose stitches with better drapes. Using thicker thread with smaller hooks makes the stitches even more rigid. Using smaller thread with bigger hooks makes the stitches even looser and lacey.

You might have to mix and match on your own to see what your project requires and what look you like best!

What To Make Out Of Embroidery Floss

Embroidery floss is, on average, about the size of fingering weight yarn, meaning around a 2 in typical yarn. However, the thread that makes up the floss is very loosely wound and silky, meaning it may be challenging to work with, will split often, and may not hold its shape.

However, that doesn’t necessarily mean you’re limited in what you can do.

Here are some of the projects best suited for crocheting with embroidery floss:

• Amigurumi / Toys
• Baskets
• Headbands
• Jewelry
• Doilies
• Appliqués
• Bookmarks
• Keychains

I’ll leave two patterns that show the differences in drape between projects with small threads to get you started. Stiff drape can be seen in this tiny crochet octopus pattern. 

For something a bit lacier and more delicate, you could try your hand at this headband pattern. To keep the same gauge, you may need to double up on your embroidery floss and crochet with two strands at once or use one strand to make it even looser.

As a final note, you should know that larger, longer crochet projects can be done with thread this thin, but it may make you wish you hadn’t started if your yarn starts splitting and breaking.

Conclusion

Hopefully, at the end of this article, you’ve got an understanding of the differences between more common crochet mediums and embroidery floss. The projects you can do with it are still plentiful, and working up a piece is no different than your regular crochet! Just smaller.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:50:19.

The post How To Crochet With Embroidery Floss first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

It may seem that winter is the perfect time to crochet a blanket, but any time is a good crochet time. Do you stick to simple, small items, though, or do you embark on a larger project?

Why not combine both of these and crochet a blanket? It may sound like quite a daunting task, but that does depend on what type of blanket you choose to make.

If you’re short on time, I’ll answer how long does it take to crochet a blanket?

To crochet a blanket that will fit a standard single bed (39 x 75 inches, or 1 m x 1.9m) using a fairly common half double crochet stitch in a single color should take you between about 20-25 hours if you have moderate experience.

No matter how you approach making a blanket, the result will have you beaming with pride. Let’s take a look at more advice on crocheting your blanket!

Choosing Your Blanket Size

When you decide to crochet a blanket, the first thing you should do is to decide on what type of blanket. The most obvious choice may be one that can cover your whole bed. Think about it, though: there are so many different types and sizes of blankets you can choose from.

‘Bed’ blankets can be any size from 39 x 75 inches (1 m x 1.9m), which will cover a single bed, to 76″ x 80″ (193 cm x 204 cm), which will cover a king-sized bed.

Then, there are blankets for babies that are 40″ x 60″ (1m x 1.5m), which is reasonably standard crib size. You can, of course, also produce an even smaller blanket for a baby in a pram.

Traveling rugs or blankets are considered to be quite old-fashioned now, but don’t you sometimes wish you had a convenient, reasonably small blanket to cover your legs, at least, when you travel? You could consider beginning your work by crocheting a traveling blanket, which can be about 60″ x 60″ (1.5 x 1.5 m).

Length Of Time For Different Blanket Sizes

Knowing how long it takes to crochet a blanket is not straightforward because several things can affect it. These include the size of the blanket, the pattern you are following, the stitches you use, and your experience with crochet.

As already described, crocheting a standard single bed blanket could take between 20-25 hours.

As a general rule of thumb, you could say that it takes approximately 20 hours for every 21 square footage or 2 square meters.

If you’re planning to crochet a super king-size blanket, then strap yourself in for a long (but fun) ride!

Crocheting Your Blanket

Crocheting a single bed blanket using a single color and simple pattern should take you about 20 – 25 hours. I don’t think that this means you could make the blanket in one day, though, because crocheting can be tiring. Instead, think about how many minutes or hours you will crochet for in a day or week, and then work out the relative time.

I find that I can spend about an hour crocheting every second day or so, which means I can crochet a single bed blanket in four or five weeks. Of course, if you have extra time, you could do it more quickly.

The time it takes to crochet any blanket will be affected by what stitch/es you use and the pattern you follow for the blanket.

Consider Your Stitch To Save Time

Simply put, crocheting is using a hook to loop yarn through itself repeatedly. Practically, though, there are many ways you can do this. Using the most basic stitch, the chain stitch will produce a long strip of looped yarn.

You could stitch these together in a spiral or in rows to form a blanket, but it really wouldn’t be worth the effort. There are easier ways to crochet and produce quite thick rows or combinations that form the basics of blankets.

A double stitch means you hook the yarn twice in one and produces a thicker stitch. A half double stitch is an even better stitch to use for a blanket. It is relatively easy and gives the crochet an excellent, quite thick bulk.

Trying out these different stitch options could save you some time for your project. So I’d recommend trying out these different stitches and timing yourself for a whole row or two while trying each style. Then you might know better which is most practical for you to continue with.

Deciding On Your Blanket Pattern

When you begin to work on a blanket, you should consider what pattern you will use. The idea of a ‘pattern’ refers to two aspects of the blanket’s design.

One of these is the colors you will use on the blanket and how they are arranged. Using more than one color means changing yarn, which can take extra time. If you want to create a specific pattern of colors on the blanket, this can take quite some time, depending on how they relate to each other.

The second level of the pattern is the type of stitches you will use and arrange them. Using a half double stitch produces a blanket with repeated, horizontal rows. You can also use a triple stitch to create shells that link in horizontal rows.

You can also use a triple stitch to form rows that work around a central point, producing a square-shaped square. This is a helpful pattern to use for a traveling blanket. If you want to use this stitch for a rectangular blanket, you can form individual squares and sew them together. This is known as a ‘granny stitch.’

All of these stitches and patterns are pretty simple, and you will be able to crochet a lovely blanket in under a month if you crochet for about four or five hours a week. Of course, if you can crochet more often, you could finish the blanket in two or three weeks.

Picking Out Your Yarn Thickness

Crocheting a blanket means using wool or similar yarn to produce a cozy finish. After all, the point of a blanket is to keep warm. You probably don’t want to be using something like embroidery floss or thread because it’s too thin.

The thicker the yarn you use, the more substantial the blanket will be. Thicker yarn will also produce the blanket more quickly than thinner wool, which will affect the time it takes to crochet a blanket.

Thicker yarn is not necessarily easier to crochet with and can produce a heavy blanket. You need to choose the yarn to suit the type and pattern of the blanket, not so that it will go more quickly. Don’t just choose thicker yarn because of the time factor, though.

Conclusion: How long does it take to crochet a blanket?

Asking how long it will take to crochet a blanket is like asking, ‘How long is a piece of string’? Well, one that has been looped into itself.

The time depends on so many things, so take note of the type of blanket, the pattern, and the color scheme to help work out the time you will spend before you can produce your masterpiece.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:46:05.

The post How Long Does It Take To Crochet A Blanket? first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

Crochet is one of the most common multi-tasking hobbies. It’s a great craft to do while watching TV, listening to music or podcasts, or while at social gatherings. If you have to count every stitch, it’s impossible to crochet and do other things simultaneously. Thankfully, there are ways to keep your rows consistent without counting.

In this article, you’ll learn how to crochet without counting so you can keep your rows consistent and not have to worry about missed stitches.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

To crochet without counting, work a chain normally, insert a stitch marker or bobby pin into the first and last stitch, chain one, and turn. When you return to the stitch with the marker, work a new stitch, then put the marker into the new stitch.

Working with stitch markers can still be a hassle, but plenty of methods can make even rows that don’t require additional tools. If you’re interested in learning to crochet by eye and instinct, so you don’t have to count each stitch, check out the rest of the article.

How To Crochet In A Straight Line

To crochet in a straight line, so your edges are even, chain one at the end of each row and insert your hook into the first stitch of the previous row instead of skipping one. Check your work often for holes or leaning, undoing and redoing stitches as necessary.

Learning to crochet simply by sight and instinct takes a lot of practice. As you get better and learn, you’ll be able to recognize pretty quickly when you’ve skipped a stitch or didn’t complete a row.

Your beginning and end stitches aren’t changeable. Stopping short or adding one will change the beginning and end stitches, making the edges wiggly. There are a couple of tricks to help you get used to the way it should look to avoid this. 

How To Crochet Straight Edges By Sight Instead Of Counting

To crochet straight edges, chain one as you come to the end of a row. Then, insert your hook into the first stitch, not the second. Don’t put it into the side stitch when you come back to this stitch and decide where to put your hook.

There are essentially two problems when working in rows: figuring out which is the first stitch and figuring out the last. This method is for turning in single crochet in which only one turning chain is required to continue onto the next row.

The first stitch might be hard to puzzle because it looks connected to the turning chain. If you’re doing the turning chain (which is ideal if you want straight edges), remember that this chain doesn’t count as a stitch so you won’t work into it. After you chain one, gently tug on your work to see that the chain is still there, then you can see which part of the work to put your hook into. Your first stitch will have the two flat loops on top to insert your hook into.

Finding the end stitch is another obstacle because you don’t want to stop short and lose a stitch, and you don’t want to crochet into the previous row’s turning chain. To avoid this, take a close look at the last stitch of the row. 

This stitch should still have two loops flat on top of the work. Next to it is the turning chain which is slanted or vertical. You should easily put your hook through the two flat loops and not have to force it into the chain.

Note that other methods require you to work into the turning chain at the end of the row and skip the first stitch after creating the turning chain. Which method you choose to do will depend on your taste. I have always found it easier to crochet into the first stitch than the second to avoid confusing myself.

Don’t get too carried away when crocheting by sight and crochet several rows of work without inspection. If you notice your rows are leaning, or if there are ample spaces between stitches, it’s okay to pull the work out and redo it. You’ll have to do this a lot less as you become an expert.

Why Crochet Rows Get Shorter And Shorter

Crochet rows get shorter because you’re skipping stitches or your tension is too tight. Beginners most often lose stitches at the beginning and end of the row, so make sure you don’t drop those or hold the yarn too tight.

Do You Have To Count When Crocheting?

You don’t have to count every stitch when you crochet, but you do have to know the signs of missed stitches, added stitches, and other beginner mistakes, so you can fix them before you get too far into your piece.

Methods For Counting Single Rows

While you may be able to get away without counting stitches each row, for most patterns, you’ll have to be able to keep track of rows you’ve completed. There are a few different ways to make it easier to count completed rows.

Count Rows Using Yarn Or Stitch Markers

One of the best ways for beginners to count rows is by inserting yarn ties into the end of each row through the turning chains. Using a contrasting color, make a tie around the turning chain at the end of the row to easily see where each row is. 

Do this every time you finish a row and chain to turn.

Count Rows By Twos

When working in rows, stitches begin to take shape in twos. For example, a single crochet stitch will make a “c” shape between the upper and bottom row. If you count the number of c shapes stacked on top of each other, multiply this by two.

Other stitches will look different. Double crochet stitches stand out and seem fluffier every other row. You can count them in pairs by adding the flat and fluffy rows in twos.

A half-double crochet will form a sort of “n” shape. Two rows together will create this, so count the number of vertical “n” stacked on top of each other, then multiply by two.

Count The Holes

Similar to the previous, this method requires you to count the number of rows of holes stacked on top of each other. There will be loose spaces where the stitches connect where you’ve formed each new row. As an easy way to spot each row, you can count the number of rows of holes stacked on top of each other (plus one for your top row) to get your number of completed rows.

Conclusion

There’s been a lot to process in this article. Still, hopefully, as a beginner to crochet or someone struggling to make their work look more professional, you’ve learned some tips, tricks, and methods to even out your work and be able to multi-task while making your finished crochet pieces.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:42:00.

The post How To Crochet Without Counting first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

When you’re just beginning to crochet, figuring out where to put stitches, how tight to hold the thread, and how much to increase on round projects can result in a few hiccups that make your pieces look funky. Crochet rippling is just one side effect of some of these mistakes. Thankfully, it isn’t the kind of mistake that requires a complete do-over – most of the time.

In this article, I will teach you how to fix crochet rippling and why it happens in the first place.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

If your flat crochet piece turns wavy, your tension may be inconsistent. Experiment with different holds on the yarn and practice making rows with even stitches before you get into a big project. Make sure you have plenty of working yarn as well.

It’s frustrating, but there are many reasons your crochet project may be bunching, rippling, or waving. It may even come down to the yarn or crochet hook you’re using. To learn about each situation that might create rippling crochet projects, keep reading and find out how to fix them without starting over completely.

Why Is My Crochet Rippling?

If your crochet piece is rippling (or ruffling as some call it), or it won’t lay flat, you have too many or too few stitches. Depending on if you’re crocheting in the round or crocheting a flat piece, it may look a little different for each case.

You may also be holding the yarn too tightly or too loosely, or you may be using the wrong size hook for the yarn you’ve chosen.

Crochet Going Wavy

If your crochet is going wavy, you may be adding stitches or creating inconsistent tension. To fix this, unravel until it isn’t wavy anymore, and be careful to count each stitch as you retry. If your tension is off, try holding the yarn differently or giving yourself more working yarn.

Sometimes it can be hard to tell when and if you’re adding stitches. Even if you have evenly straight edges, you can still add stitches in the middle where it would be harder to see. Extra stitches added throughout can result in wavy crochet.

To avoid this, if you’re unsure if you’ve already placed a stitch, turn your piece so the v-shapes of the stitches are facing you. The next available stitch should have a complete v-shape. With fluffier yarn, you may have to be extra sure by pulling your last stitch aside to make sure you haven’t already worked there.

Another reason your crochet may be wavy is if your tension is off. Too much tension can result in looser stitches that take up more space on the piece—having tension that is too tight can result in rigid stitches that pull the stitches beside it out of shape. To get even, flat rows, get a better grasp on proper tension through practice or by experimenting with different yarn holds to see which works best for you.

Sometimes the way the yarn comes out of the skein may be interfering with consistent tension. Many crocheters find it easier to wind their skeins into a cake or a ball before pulling the yarn. Pulling from the center instead of from the outside also tends to help create a more even pull.

How To Fix Rippling Crochet Circle

To fix a rippling crochet circle, pay close attention to when the circle begins not to lay flat. If it is starting to ripple, unravel a row (or several) and add fewer or no stitches at all. If curling inward, unravel the previous row and add more stitches.

If you’re crocheting in the round, your circle is rippling, and you’re not following a pattern, the most likely scenario is that you have too many or too few stitches. 

In an oval or circle shape, if the edges begin to curl inward and they aren’t meant to, this means you haven’t increased enough. Unravel the curling rows until it lays flat again, and be sure to increase by the appropriate amount, experimenting with what helps the piece keep its shape.

If you’re working your circle or oval and the piece begins to bunch up or ripple, this means you have too many increases, and the outer circle can’t support them all. Once again, undo the rows until your piece looks flat again, then increase in smaller amounts. When working without a pattern, this will take a bit of trial and error.

Sometimes, a piece can begin to ripple or curl even when you’re following a pattern. If you’re increasing as the pattern suggests, your tension may be off, and the outer stitches are too tight. Another possible cause is the yarn and hook size are incompatible. Consider going up a hook size to see if this loosens up the piece to help it lay flat.

Loose Foundation Row Creating Ripples

To stop your crochet from rippling on the bottom, crochet your foundation row in the foundation single crochet instead of chaining. This prevents the chains from being looser than the rest of your piece, which would result in the bottom of the piece looking wavy.

Another common problem in crochet is that the foundation chain of the piece gets loose as you work into it, making the piece look uneven on the bottom, so it ripples or curves on the end. The best way to remedy this is to learn the starting crochet row without chains. This is called the foundation single crochet (FSC).

To make an FSC, chain two. Then, insert your hook into the second chain from the hook. Pull up a loop. You’ll now have two loops on your hook. Instead of pulling through both loops, pull through one. This will put one loop slightly elevated above the other.

Yarn over, then pull through both loops. This is your first single crochet.

Now it gets a little tricky. It can be hard to tell where to put your hook since you’re essentially working your first row and your foundation chain simultaneously. If your first stitch is lying flat in front of you, turn it on its side so that you can see the “v” shape of the top stitches.

In the v-shape nearest the hook, insert your hook through both loops on top. It shouldn’t go into the space you created. There should be tension as you insert your hook. Pull up a loop, pull through one. Yarn over, pull through two.

Continue working on your FSC until you’ve reached the desired number of stitches.

Why Does My Crochet Circle Look Like A Hexagon?

If your circle looks like a hexagon, it is because you’re increasing in the same spot with each new row, essentially stacking them on top of each other. Instead of spacing out your increases to be on the “corners” of your circle, increase every other stitch or every three stitches.

Conclusion

Hopefully, as you finish this article, you’ve found out why your crochet is rippling or wavy and how to fix it. In the future, be sure to reference this guide to learn how to flatten a crochet circle, get even tension, and create a secure foundation.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:38:24.

The post How To Fix Crochet Rippling (Wavy & Circles ) first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

There may be nothing more frustrating than having a completed project begin to unravel. The days or weeks of work that went into it feel wasted if the result falls apart! There is a lot of debate in the crochet community about how extensive your efforts need to be to keep your project from unraveling, but for the most part, it’s pretty simple.

In this article, I’m going to teach you why your projects are unraveling and how to stop crochet from unraveling, tie off a finished project, and weave in your ends so you have a piece that lasts forever.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

To stop crochet from unraveling, leave long ends when changing colors or cutting off. Weave the ends back into the stitches with a blunt tapestry needle by dipping over and under them horizontally, then vertically.

If you’re interested in a more step-by-step process for ending a piece and weaving in your ends, or if you want to see other popular methods for securing your ends, stick around to the end of the article.

Why Is My Crochet Blanket Unraveling?

The most likely reason your crochet blanket is unraveling is that you didn’t leave long enough ends between color changes, or at the end of your project, the knot has come undone, and the stitches are falling apart.

I can’t tell you how many veteran crocheters I’ve seen tie a standard double knot, then snip their ends as close as they can to the knot. Many people do this, and unfortunately, after washes and wear, this knot will come undone, and there’s nothing left for you to use to repair the project.

How you end the project will predict how long it lasts, so it’s essential to do it right. If you’re unsure if you’re following standard procedure, I’ll detail how to end the project step-by-step in the next section.

How To Fasten Off

Cut your yarn with about six inches left to fasten off your crochet project. Grab the tail of the yarn with your hook and pull it through the loop on your hook until the end comes all the way through. Pull the end tightly to secure the knot.

I think this may be one of the few things people make too complicated. You don’t have to do an elaborate series of knots. One knot and some careful weaving will be plenty to secure the end of your work. 

How To Weave In The Ends – Under and Over Method

To weave in the end of your work, put your tail through the eye of a tapestry needle. Use the needle to go back into the stitches, pushing it under and over every other stitch for three or four inches. Then, do the same thing vertically.

It can be hard to tell where to put the needle, but part of the point of weaving it in is to get the end lost in the stitches. If you go through one and split it, even better. To clarify where you’re weaving the end into, you’re trying to create a 90-degree angle with it. After going over the stitches parallel to the rows, go perpendicular.

How To Weave In The Ends – The Tunnel Method

To weave in the end of your work with the tunnel method, thread your tail through a tapestry needle, then slip it inside the loop that goes through the middle of your stitches. Once you’ve gone three or four inches, move down a row and go back the other way.

There is a front and a back face to your stitch as further explanation. You’re trying to slip in between them.

Some people recommend unraveling the end by picking apart the strings that make up the end and weaving the separate strands into their separate tunnels. All this does is add an extra layer of security.

Another variation of the method is to crochet over the ends as you pick up a new color or thread. To do this, you’ll hold the thread over the top of or to the back of the previous row and crochet normally, making sure to keep the thread inside of each new stitch.

How To Weave In The Ends On A Granny Square

To weave in the ends on a granny square, use a tapestry needle or your crochet hook to go back and forth along the direction of same-color stitches with the ends. Make sure to weave in the ends on the wrong side of your work.

Weaving ends on a granny square is a little more complicated for a few reasons. Number one, you’ve got small sections of color that limit the places you can put your end. Number two, you have a lot of ends in a small space.

For this, it’s not much different than any other process, but as your granny squares will be taking a lot of pulling and pressure from the squares around it, and you’ll likely be washing and using this piece a lot, it’s best to be diligent with your ends. Go back and forth through same-color sections two or even three times, making sure not to peak through to the front side of the square.

As a general tip, weave your ends in as you go for a granny square. Maybe every two rows. If you waited until the end of a project to do any weaving, you might decide to give up the hobby altogether and try a life of homelessness.

How Do I Keep My Crochet Tight?

To keep your crochet project tight, you need to consider the weight and drape of your project and your tension. If your project gets too heavy and loose, your ends may come undone easier than if it stays in shape.

Especially with sweaters, you may have the issue of your yarn expanding and getting loose as you wear it. This is natural, and it is sometimes a great thing. If you didn’t account for it, though, your perfectly-sized wearable can suddenly become too big for you. 

Make swatches and put them through the wringer to get a feel for how heavy yarn is. Pull on them, wash and dry them, hang something heavy from them. This is a great way to see how your stitches will hold up with wear. If the stitches get loose and your project gets more extensive, you may need to consider this with sizing and adjust accordingly.

Tension is probably the most crucial aspect of keeping your project looking and feeling tight. There’s no easy way to get perfect tension except through practice.

Experiment with how you hold your hook, how you hold your yarn, and how you’re getting your yarn. If you’re pulling from the outside of a skein, you may benefit from pulling from the inside instead. If you have yarn barf or tangle problem, try wrapping your yarn into a ball before starting a project.

Each of these components could impact the tension of your project, so play around with what gives you the best-looking piece and what will withstand wear. And make sure you’re leaving long ends and weaving them in, as this is just another defense against loosening work.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:33:20.

The post How To Stop Crochet From Unraveling (4 Tips) first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.

Crochet is a pretty excellent multi-tasking hobby for those with good hearing, but if you ever really want to watch a show while you’re working, you’re mostly out of luck. Stealing a few glimpses at the screen is good enough for most, but what if it were possible to get every juicy detail on the screen without missing a stitch on your project?

In this article, I’m going to teach you how to crochet without looking, so you can stay engaged with your visual media, save your neck, and get work done simultaneously.

In a hurry? Here’s the quick guide:

To crochet without looking at your work, stick to stitches with large gaps like the granny stripe and the v-stitch. Feel where to insert the stitch with your yarn-holding hand and hold your hook in a pencil grip to be more accurate with your reach. 

While it’s easier, especially for those who aren’t quite an expert yet, to crochet with looking by relying on certain stitches, it is possible to crochet without looking for more intricate stitches that require the hook to go into the “V.

If you’re looking for ways to practice this skill, some things that might cause hang-ups, and specific crochet techniques that are conducive to working blind, then you might want to stick around for the rest of the article.

Best Stitches For Crocheting Without Looking

The granny stripe and v-stitch are much easier stitches to practice when learning to crochet without looking. These stitches have chain gaps where you’ll insert your hook in the next row, making it easier to feel out than with other single stitches.

The Granny Stripe Stitch

The granny stripe stitch, often used in granny squares, is probably the best stitch to practice crochet without looking. This stitch will create clusters separated by large chain spaces that will be easier to feel with your off-hand.

To begin, start with a chain in a multiple of three. Create a row of single crochet, then chain two. Double Crochet (DC) in the first stitch, skip two stitches, then crochet three dc into the third stitch from your first dc. Repeat this pattern until the end of the row, where you will only crochet two dc in the final stitch.

As you’ll notice, this pattern creates large gaps between stitches where you’ve skipped two. This allows you to easily feel where to insert your hook with your yarn-holding hand. On your second row, you’ll chain two, then crochet three dc into the spaces along the row. You’ll only crochet one DC into the last stitch at the end of row two. 

For row three, you’ll crochet the same as you did for row one. For row four, you’ll repeat row two, and so on.

The V-Stitch

To start the v-stitch, create a foundation row in a multiple of three. In the fourth chain from the hook, work a double crochet, chain one, and then double crochet in the same stitch. Skip two, then work another v-stitch down the row.

You’ll start with a chain two and turn when you move to the second row. Be careful when looking for the gap. Don’t crochet into the space on either side of the v-space: double crochet, chain one, double crochet into the chain one space.

It may be difficult to tell at first where to put the next v-stitch, but after the second row, it will be much easier to tell. When crocheting with the purpose of not looking at your work, practice feeling with your off-hand where the spaces are, not relying on your eyes.

How To Hold Your Hook To Crochet Without Looking

To crochet without looking efficiently, try working with a pencil grip that will require less hook twisting. To use this grip, hold the hook close to the tip, pinched between your index finger and your thumb. Push the hook through the stitches without twisting your wrist. 

If the pencil grip doesn’t work for you, you can still practice this method with the grip you are most comfortable using. If you’re struggling, try out other grips to see if they help you catch the yarn with the hook more easily.

Techniques To Crochet Without Looking

To crochet without looking and relying on a stitch with large gaps, try using your off-hand to pinch the next stitch where you will insert your hook. Inserting the hook into the stitch will push through and touch your index or middle finger.

As you continue down the row, you’ll scoot your fingers to the adjacent stitch, using the hook on your middle finger as reassurance that you’re going into the right stitch.

Start By Looking Off To The Side

Another technique to crochet without looking at the project is to practice looking away in baby steps. This will acclimate you to the feeling of not looking at your work constantly.

Start by looking past your work, either over the top or to the side. Your eyes aren’t directly focused on the piece, which will make you feel a little bit uncomfortable to start. Get used to the feeling of relying on your peripheral vision before you advance to the next baby step.

After this, begin looking at your TV or computer screen while keeping the project in your peripheral vision. You’ve still got a sight on your project, but you’re acclimating yourself to looking up instead of down.

Now, instead of keeping your project in your vision, try closing your eyes. Over time, as you practice this, try to increase the duration of time when your eyes are closed.

After these exercises, you’re ready to try watching the screen (or doing whatever else you want to do) without keeping your project in sight at all. At this stage, it will take time as you try to increase the increments you don’t have to look down. 

The Best Tools To Crochet Without Looking

To reduce the struggle you might face when trying to crochet without looking, make sure you’re using yarn that doesn’t split, a hook that doesn’t catch the yarn and isn’t too slippery, and maybe try out a Tunisian hook for a more straightforward method of crocheting blind.

“Splitty” yarn is going to be one of your biggest obstacles when trying to make precise movements without looking at the project. Play around with the yarn you’re using by crocheting normally. If you find yourself re-doing stitches because you’ve punched through the middle of a stitch, don’t use that yarn.

Another consideration is your hook. Make sure you’re getting a smooth pull when creating stitches with whatever hook you choose.

Finally, Tunisian crochet may be an excellent tool for crocheting without looking for certain periods. You may have to pay close attention to where your stitches go on the forward pass. On the backward pass, however, you’re just pulling through loops. It may help you practice letting go of your discomfort of looking away from the project.

Hopefully, with these tips, you can learn how to crochet without looking, so you can feel more engaged with your favorite media and your loved ones while working on projects.

Originally posted 2022-07-06 11:28:48.

The post How To Crochet Without Looking (2 Stitches You Can Try!) first appeared on Becoming Homegrown.